My Kumaon Dairy – Part 1 : From the Lake City Nainital to Abode of Sun, the Katarmal Sun Temple through Kainchi Dham
A Journey Through Nainital, Kainchi Dham, and Katarmal Sun Temple
Listening to the Irresistible Call of the Himalayas
They say the mountains don’t call you when you want; they call you when you are ready. Yielding to that relentless inner pull, I had planned a month-long expedition to Sikkim for the summer of 2026. My eyes were fixed on the ultimate prize: Gurudongmar Lake. This dream destination had finally become accessible again on February 25, 2026, after a year-long closure caused by the washing away of the Taramchu Bridge during the 2025 monsoon. But the universe had other plans. A sudden medical emergency in the family brought my grand designs crashing down. I was utterly disheartened—until a twist of fate revealed a gentle intervention. On April 5, 2026, a massive landslide washed away the approach road to that very same Taramchu Bridge, completely severing access to North Sikkim once again. My heartbreak instantly turned into gratitude for a blessing in disguise. Still, the irresistible allure of the Himalayas refused to be silenced. Pivoting from East to West, we set off on a brief, yet deeply magical, 18-day journey through the soul-stirring Kumaon region of Uttarakhand.
Sikkim’s Closure, Kumaon’s Calling
Diverting my destination from Sikkim to Uttarakhand, I decided to opt for a gentler, more leisurely itinerary exploring the verdant expanses of the Kumaon region. True to my preference for offbeat solitude over crowded tourist hubs, my focus was squarely on the peaceful northern belt of Kausani, Chaukori, and Binsar. Initially, I planned to bypass Nainital altogether. Having lived in undivided Uttar Pradesh during the 1980s, I had visited Nainital quite a few times, and it remains one of my absolute favorite lake cities. However, over the years, the crushing weight of commercialization has robbed it of the tranquil charm it was once famous for. Ultimately, it was a mix of nostalgia for Naini Lake and sheer geography that changed my mind; since it served as a perfect pitstop on the way north, I decided to include Nainital on the onward journey, and its quieter neighbor, Bhimtal, for the return leg.
The Bitter-Sweet Return to Nainital
After a long drive from Delhi Airport, we finally arrived at our first stop: the beautiful Lake City of Nainital, our home for the next three days. However, our initial excitement was met with a bit of dismay regarding the weather. Contrary to our expectations for a high-altitude, forested region, it was surprisingly hot. There wasn’t even a trace of that classic mountain chill, not even when night fell.
Returning to Nainital after decades was less of a conventional holiday and more of a deeply nostalgic pilgrimage. Having frequented this beautiful hill station during the 1980s, my mind was a repository of fond, sun-drenched memories: the scenic, winding drive up from Kathgodam, leisurely evening strolls along the Mall Road, and the profound peace that used to drape over the stunning Naini Lake. For decades, the breathtaking vistas from Snow View Point had lingered vividly in my mind, acting as a quiet, perennial whistle calling me back to the hills.
However, my recent four-day stay was a sobering encounter with reality. The once-pristine route from the foothills Kathgodam, now feels like an endless, concrete hillside bazaar, where nature's viewing windows have been replaced by a dense wall of hotels and restaurants. The formerly tranquil Mall Road and lakeside promenade have succumbed to overwhelming crowds and chaotic vehicular traffic, turning a simple, contemplative walk into a logistical challenge. Gone, too, is the old-world charm of the local folk who once lined the promenade, selling wood-fired corn kernels that infused the crisp mountain air with a smoky, comforting aroma. Even Snow View Point, once a sanctuary for quiet contemplation of the peaks, has had its cable car terminus transformed into a noisy, cluttered amusement and gaming zone.
Thankfully, all was not lost. The majestic Naini Lake itself, the deeply revered Naina Devi Shrine, and the serene heights of Hanuman Garhi have managed to withstand the onslaught, remaining unspoiled to a comforting extent. Sitting by their banks and courtyards, I could still catch fleeting whispers of the old Nainital I loved.
While economic development and local livelihoods are undeniably essential, it is deeply painful to witness the heavy, irreversible toll it has taken on the town's natural beauty and serenity. Yet, notwithstanding these environmental setbacks, the intrinsic geography of Nainital ensures it will undoubtedly remain one of Uttarakhand's premier tourist destinations—even if it now demands a different kind of patience from the nostalgic traveler.
The Spiritual Soul of Nainital: Sacred Sites and Timeless Waters
The city of Nainital takes its name from the revered Naina Devi Temple, an ancient shrine dedicated to Goddess Naina Devi, nestled on the banks of Naini Lake, a stunning, eye-shaped water body deeply steeped in history and ancient mythology. And hence the story of Nainital is incomplete without visiting these places.
Naini Lake: The Emerald Soul of the Town
According to ancient texts like the Skanda Purana, the lake was originally known as Tri-Rishi-Sarovar, created when three holy sages dug a hole and channeled water into it directly from the sacred Lake Mansarovar. Later mythology established it as a major Shakti Peeth, marking the exact spot where Goddess Sati’s left eye (Nayan) fell to earth, giving both the lake and the town their names.
With its striking eye-shaped shores and deep emerald water, Naini Lake has always been, and will always remain, the true centerpiece of both Nainital and Uttarakhand. A visit is incomplete without the iconic boating experience, where you can drift lazily across the water surrounded by mist-covered hills. Going for a traditional rowboat or paddleboat ride on its emerald waters—flanked by the bustling Mall Road on one side and steep, forested hills on the other—remains a quintessential Himalayan experience that balances natural beauty with a sense of timeless tranquility. Back on land, spending quality time just sitting by the lake’s edge offers a peaceful sanctuary to unwind and soak in the breathtaking views.
Naina Devi Temple: A Sanctuary of Resilience and Faith
Perched serene and watchful on the northern shores of Naini Lake, the Naina Devi Temple is one of the most revered spiritual sites in Northern India. Guarded by two stone lions at the entrance, this ancient shrine is dedicated to Goddess Naina Devi. While its roots date back to the 15th century, the original temple structure was completely destroyed in the catastrophic landslide of 1880. Driven by deep local faith, it was lovingly rebuilt in 1883 and has since stood as a symbol of resilience, believed by locals to protect the valley from further calamities. Amidst the maddening crowd and traffic jam, the temple offers a profound spiritual pause; the rhythmic sound of temple bells blending with the ripples of the adjacent lake creates an extraordinarily peaceful atmosphere, especially during the vibrant evening aarti. By a wonderful coincidence, Vat Savitri—one of the region's major festivals—occurred during our stay in Nainital. That day, the temple premises truly came alive, filled with the vibrant energy of married women offering prayers for the longevity and prosperity of their husbands.
Naina Devi – The Shakti Peetha : According to Hindu mythology, the Shakti Peeths were created after Goddess Sati immolated herself in a sacrificial fire because her father, King Daksha, publicly insulted her husband, Lord Shiva. Consumed by grief and rage, Shiva carried her body and performed a dance of cosmic destruction. To save the universe, Lord Vishnu used his Sudarshan Chakra to cut Sati's body into 51 pieces. The locations where these parts fell became the 51 Shakti Peeths, with the Naina Devi Temple marking the exact spot where her eyes landed.
Hanuman Garhi: Neem Karoli Baba’s Hilltop Sanctuary
Situated about 5 kilometers from the Naina Devi Temple stand at an altitude of 6,401 feet, Hanuman Garhi is a place of deep devotion and spectacular views. The temple complex was established in the early 1950s by the legendary wandering saint, Neem Karoli Baba, who meditated on what was then a neglected hill mound. The central focal point is a massive, majestic idol of Lord Hanuman, beautifully sculpted to show him tearing open his chest to reveal Lord Ram and Sita residing in his heart. Beyond its profound religious significance, Hanuman Garhi is a favorite haunt for travelers and photographers. Climbing the 70 steps to the complex rewards you with a panoramic vantage point over the Tarai Valley, making it one of the most breathtaking and spiritually uplifting sunset-watching spots in the region.
The Aerial Ropeway: A Swiss-Engineered Flight to the Peaks
For an unmatched dramatic bird’s-eye view revealing the entire crescent-shaped Naini Lake cradled perfectly within the surrounding mountain peaks, don’t miss to take a ride of the Nainital Aerial Ropeway. Connecting the low flats of Mallital near the northern end of Naini Lake to the soaring heights of Snow View Point, this Ropeway is one of the town’s most popular and exhilarating tourist attractions. Built using advanced Swiss technology, it is widely recognized as one of the safest and steepest cable car systems in India, involving a thrilling three-minute journey that ascends to an elevation of 2,270 meters above sea level.
Finding Serenity on the Outskirts
To escape the bustling crowds of the main town, we chose to stay on the quieter outskirts of Nainital. It proved to be a perfect decision, granting us the chance to wander along peaceful forest trails and embrace the serene mornings and evenings. Surrounded by the gentle rustle of pine and deodar trees, our days began and ended with nothing but the soft mountain breeze and the sweet, uninterrupted chirping of birds.
Into the Quiet Heart of the Kumaon Hills
After three wonderful days refreshing my old memories of Nainital by soaking in the charm of Naini Lake and seeking the blessings of Goddess Naina Devi, we headed north toward the tranquil solitudes of Kausani, Chaukori, and Binsar. Away from the typical tourist trail, these hidden gems offer little in the way of bustling commercial attractions—their true wealth lies in ancient temple complexes and sweeping, panoramic vistas of the majestic Himalayas. While most travelers rush through these towns on whirlwind tours, their relative quiet makes them the perfect, uncrowded retreat for anyone seeking a slower, more mindful escape.
Since the next ten to twelve days of our tour were all about unwinding, we chose vintage accommodations that offered unobstructed views of the grand Himalayan vista right from our rooms. Our days were beautifully slow—filled with minimal travel, relaxed morning and evening strolls through the fragrant chir and deodar forests, hours spent bird watching, occasional hiking on the mountain trails and quiet moments exploring ancient temple complexes.
"Lake City" to the 'Switzerland of India' and the Call of the “Sun Temple”
Our next stop was Kausani, a tranquil hill station in the Bageshwar district of Uttarakhand where we would spend the next four days. Often referred to as the 'Switzerland of India'—a title famously bestowed upon it by Mahatma Gandhi—it promised a deeply peaceful retreat.
The journey from Nainital to Kausani offers a compelling choice between two distinct paths, each promising its own unique allure. While the route via Ranikhet is celebrated for its picturesque meadows and colonial charm, the alternative path through Almora—the cultural heartbeat and largest town of the Kumaon region—presents an irresistible historical encounter. For someone hailing from Odisha, the cradle of the world-renowned Konark Sun Temple, the decision becomes deeply personal and evocative. Drawn by the opportunity to stand before the architectural grandeur of the ancient Katarmal Sun Temple—a rare and masterful stone-carved marvel nestled in the hills—the spirit naturally gravitates toward this second route, seeking to bridge a connection between the sun-worshipping heritage of one's homeland and the majestic, hidden treasures of the Himalayas.
We started early from Nainital, deliberately skipping breakfast to beat the heavy traffic and long queues at our first stop. We were heading to the internationally renowned Kainchi Dham—a pristine ashram and temple complex that goes far beyond a conventional spiritual retreat.
Kainchi Dham: A Spiritual Sanctuary in the Kumaon Hills
Established in 1964 in the lush Kumaon hills of Uttarakhand by the revered saint Neem Karoli Baba, affectionately known as "Maharaj-ji", Kainchi Dham (also known as the Neem Karoli Baba Ashram) is a sanctuary where profound spiritual energy meets the serene beauty of the Himalayas. The name "Kainchi" (meaning "scissors" in Hindi) is derived from the unique geography of the site, where two mountain streams intersect, forming a scissor-like shape.
Baba, who is widely considered by devotees to be an incarnation of Lord Hanuman, promoted a simple but transformative philosophy: Love everyone, serve everyone, remember God, and tell the truth. Today, the ashram remains a center for meditation and selfless service, housing a Hanuman temple that is believed to carry the enduring, tangible presence of the saint.
The Quiet Sanctuary That Shaped Global Visionaries
What began as a secluded sanctuary known only to locals has quietly evolved into an international phenomenon. Kainchi Dham is widely regarded not as a commercial tourist stop, but as a profound vortex of spiritual energy—a place people visit seeking deep emotional grounding and inner transformation. Its subtle power is inextricably linked to some of the modern world’s most influential minds, serving as a beacon of clarity at critical turning points in their lives:
Steve Jobs (1974): A young Jobs traveled to India seeking spiritual clarity and Nirvana. Though Neem Karoli Baba had passed away the previous year, Jobs spent time meditating at Kainchi Dham. He later credited his time in India with shaping his intuition and the minimalist, focused philosophy that defined Apple.
Mark Zuckerberg (2015): Decades later, during an intense and challenging period in the early days of Facebook, Jobs advised Zuckerberg to visit the ashram to reconnect with his purpose. His subsequent visit sparked renewed global curiosity about the sanctuary's unique ability to restore mental clarity.
The Western Bridge: Earlier Western seekers, most notably Ram Dass (formerly Harvard professor Richard Alpert), first helped bridge the gap between East and West by documenting Maharaj-ji's core teachings of love, service, and humility.
In recent years, Kainchi Dham has experienced a massive surge in contemporary popularity across India. It has become a frequent refuge for corporate leaders, high-profile figures, and sports icons like Virat Kohli and Anushka Sharma—all drawn by the same quiet promise of clarity that has anchored visionaries for generations.
The Shadow of Commercialization
The very features that draw seekers to Kainchi Dham—its profound tranquility and rich legacy—have also placed it under significant pressure. Driven by global awareness, an exponential surge in footfall now frequently clashes with the ashram's quiet, meditative essence. This boom has transformed the surrounding valley; what was once an isolated sanctuary is now witnessing rapid commercial development, with investors rushing to build boutique hotels, cafés, and residential projects along what is being called the "Neeb Karoli Corridor." This influx has severely strained local infrastructure, causing heavy traffic congestion on the narrow Nainital–Almora road and forcing authorities to widen roads and plan bypasses, which inevitably alters the valley's rural charm. Ultimately, Kainchi Dham faces a delicate modern dilemma: how to preserve its sanctity and soul as an authentic spiritual refuge while navigating its new reality as a booming, "bucket-list" tourist destination.
Where the Hustle Fades: The Living Legacy of Maharaj-ji
Despite our early arrival, reaching the main gates proved to be a test of patience—and we were told it becomes far more chaotic on weekends and holidays, when securing a parking spot feels like a major achievement. Yet, the moment we stepped through the gates, the hustle evaporated. Walking inside, you can still feel the heartbeat of Neem Karoli Baba's legacy in the rhythmic, soul-stirring chants of the Hanuman Chalisa. An undeniable stillness hangs in the air, echoing the saint's timeless teaching to 'love everyone, serve everyone, and tell the truth.' For anyone looking to trade the relentless hum of modern life for a moment of genuine reflection, it remains an absolute must-visit.
Leaving Kainchi Dham: The Scenic Detour to Katarmal
After soothing our weary souls in the invisible presence of Maharaj-ji and enjoying a sumptuous breakfast, we embarked on our northward journey. We wound our way along mountain roads enveloped by the lush greenery of Kumaon, occasionally catching fleeting glimpses of the distant, mist-shrouded Himalayan peaks. Following a quick lunch stop near Almora and taking a 5 KMs diversion from Almora-Kausani Highway, we finally arrived at Katarmal village, From the designated ASI parking point at Katarmal village, a moderate uphill trek of about 1 to 1.5 kilometers along stone steps and uneven terrain brought us to our destination — the spectacular 9th-century stone marvel of the Katarmal Sun Temple, the very reason we had chosen this cultural route over the path through Ranikhet..
Echoes of the Sun: From Konark to Katarmal
Growing up in Odisha, the Konark Sun Temple isn’t just a historical monument to me—it is a part of my identity. I’ve always been fiercely proud of how our ancestors engineered that massive stone chariot on the shores of the Bay of Bengal. But when you look beyond our borders, you realize how beautifully diverse our heritage is. Far from our coastal plains, tucked away in the Kumaon hills of Uttarakhand, sits the Katarmal Sun Temple. It is an equally captivating, intimate and serene architectural marvel. Perched on a hill slope at 7,000 feet facing eastward, this 9th-century architectural marvel, one of India’s rarest Vedic sun temples, features a main shrine dedicated to the Sun God, Burhadita, surrounded by 44 smaller shrines on a high stone pedestal.
Shifting Eras and Altitudes : The Sun Temple at Konark is the ultimate symbol of 13th-century regional pride, built by King Narasimhadeva I of the Eastern Ganga Dynasty as a grand statement of royal victory and devotion. We know it as a coastal titan—the famous "Black Pagoda" that early European sailors used to navigate our coastal waters. Katarmal, however, takes us much further back in time. Built in the 9th Century CE by King Katarmalla of the Katyuri Dynasty, it predates Konark by four centuries. While our temple commands the sea level, Katarmal sits in a remote, lofty setting surrounded by pine-covered hills. It beautifully reflects the Himalayan affinity for high-altitude sanctuaries that feel closer to the heavens.
The Contrasting Architectures : Coming to the architecture, to counter the seismic vulnerability of the Himalayas, the Katyuri architects utilized massive, locally quarried gray stone slabs, dry-fitting them with exceptional precision without the use of mortar. Instead, they reinforced the structure using iron clamps at places and a traditional bio-adhesive mixture of lime, jaggery, and lentil paste (urad dal), while enriching the doors and pillars with Likhai—the region’s traditional intricate wood-carving craft. In contrast, the builders of Konark sourced three distinct, non-local stones that had to be floated down-river from distant quarries: chlorite for the intricate sculptures, laterite for the foundational core, and khondalite for the exterior walls. This coastal masterpiece utilized flawless ashlar masonry with joints polished so finely they appeared invisible, all structurally supported by monumental iron beams.
Contrasting Visual Philosophies : The artistic narratives of both the temples represent a different facet of artistic and spiritual expression: The art at Katarmal is restrained, elegant, and deeply spiritual. The carvings on the weathered stone walls feature deities like Shiva-Parvati and Lakshmi-Narayana alongside Surya. Whereas at Konark is overwhelming in its density and narrative scope. The outer walls are entirely covered in deeply expressive carvings depicting everything from everyday medieval life, military processions, hunts, and mythical beasts to highly sophisticated erotic couples (mithunas) and musicians.
The Shared Cosmic Axis : Despite of the above divergence, both temples are brilliant examples of ethno-astronomy. They are meticulously oriented on an east-west axis so that during specific times of the year (particularly the equinoxes), the very first rays of the rising sun pierce directly through the main entrance doors to illuminate the inner sanctum where the deity resided.
Chasing the Horizon: Onward to the Switzerland of India
As the afternoon sun began its descent over the hills of Katarmal, we made our way back, our minds still buzzing with the incredible architectural and cosmic parallels between this Himalayan sanctuary and the coastal titan of my home state. Leaving the ancient stone shrines behind, we rejoined the main highway and pushed further north toward Kausani. The air grew perceptibly cooler with each winding turn, and the dense pine forests gradually opened up, as if preparing us for the grand Himalayan vistas that lay ahead. With the spiritual stillness of Kainchi Dham and the solar majesty of Katarmal safely tucked into our memories, we drove into the evening, ready to surrender to the slow, quiet rhythms of the 'Switzerland of India.'
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