Pachmarhi, The Queen of Satpura : Where Nature Paints A Masterpiece

Pachmarhi, The Queen of Satpura

In my earlier post, I shared my experience of Patalkot and Tamia, the enchanting gateway to Pachmarhi. (A Journey into the Unknown: Exploring the Mystical Patalkot Valley & Tamia (https://www.ghumnechalo.in/post/a-journey-into-the-unknown-exploring-the-mystical-patalkot-valley-tamia). Having explored the mystical depths of Patalkot and the serene beauty of Tamia, I'm excited to now guide you through the breathtaking landscapes and the crown jewel of the Satpura Range, Pachmarhi, the “Queen of Satpura”. A captivating hill station, Pachmarhi beckons nature enthusiasts and adventure seekers alike. Nestled amidst the verdant Satpura Range, this picturesque destination boasts cascading waterfalls, lush valleys, breathtaking viewpoints and top 4 highest peaks of Madhya Pradesh. The pristine beauty of Pachmarhi is further accentuated by its diverse flora and fauna, making it a haven for wildlife enthusiasts.

History of Pachmarhi :

Captain J. Forsyth, the renowned author of the ‘The Highlands of Central India’, discovered Pachmarhi in 1862 while exploring the portion of Satpura forests. Interestingly, the history of Pachmarhi is a fascinating blend of mythology, ancient history, and British colonial influence.

Mythological Origins:  The name "Pachmarhi" is believed to be derived from five ancient caves , the Pandav Caves, which have been here in a small hell rising abruptly from an open part of the plateau. The word "Panch" means “five” and "Marhi", the “caves”. Legend says these caves, known as Pandav Caves, were built by the five Pandava brothers during their exile. There are also ancient cave shrines with mythological legends dedicated to Lord Shiva, further emphasizing the area's religious significance. The area also holds significance in Buddhist mythology, with some believing it was a shelter for Buddhist monks in the 1st century AD.

Ancient History: The Satpura Hills, where Pachmarhi is located, have evidence of ancient rock paintings dating back to 500-800 AD, with some possibly as old as 10,000 years.

British Era:  As mentioned earlier, Pachmarhi was rediscovered by Captain James Forsyth in 1857. The British developed it into a popular hill station and sanatorium, serving as the summer capital of the Central Provinces. The cantonment was established in 1872, and the town developed with British-era architecture and infrastructure.

Modern Times: In 2009, UNESCO declared the Pachmarhi area a Biosphere Reserve due to its rich biodiversity. Today, it remains a sought-after tourist destination for its natural beauty, historical sites, and pleasant climate.

Now let’s embark on a journey through the breathtaking hill station of Pachmarhi and understand why it's rightfully called the 'Queen of Satpura' You need an entry pass and vehicle permit to visit some areas in Pachmarhi, India, because it's a part of the Satpura Biosphere Reserve and is home to the Satpura National Park and Tiger Reserve. The entry pass and vehicle permit are issued at Tourist Information Centre at Bison Lodge.

Bison Lodge : Your Adventure Starts at Bison Lodge

Once the home of Captain Forsyth, the Bison Lodge invites visitors to explore the breathtaking Satpura Hills. This historic landmark, housing a natural history museum and tourist information center, offers a glimpse into the region's rich biodiversity and captivating past. The museum showcases a fascinating collection of flora and fauna, including life-sized replicas of majestic creatures like tigers, lions and bisons. 

Bison Lodge is more than just a museum; it's unique blend of history and charm. Its colonial building and captivating artifacts offer a window into the past, making it more than just a museum. You have to book necessary entry passes for tourist sites and vehicle permits from the Tourist Information Centre at Bison Lodge.

The Majestic Dhoopgarh : Madhya Pradesh's Highest Peak

Eleven kilometers from Pachmarhi, deep within the Satpura Reserve Forest, lies Dhoopgarh, the crown jewel of Madhya Pradesh. As the state's highest point, it offers a breathtaking panorama of Pachmarhi town and the sprawling Satpura and Vindhya ranges. At an impressive 4429 feet, Dhoopgarh is renowned for its breathtaking sunrises and sunsets. However, Dhoopgarh is a sight to behold, especially during the monsoon season when it's cloaked in a mystical fog and vibrant greenery.

A testament to the British Raj, the Dhoopgarh Museum, a former colonial bungalow, stands proudly atop the peak. This historic structure, with its captivating colonial charm and panoramic views, transports visitors to a bygone era. During the British era, it served as a serene retreat for officials seeking respite from the scorching plains.

Reaching Dhoopgarh requires a thrilling journey: a jeep ride through ghat roads, valleys, and waterfalls followed by a short trek. To secure your spot on this journey, obtain an entry pass and book a jeep from the Bison Lodge Tourist Centre.

Reechgarh: A Thrilling Adventure Through Nature's Labyrinth

Reechgarh, a breathtaking natural wonder nestled within the Satpura Range, boasts narrow gorges, towering rock formations, and mysterious caves. This unique geological formation offers a thrilling adventure. A remarkable feature is a massive cave with entrances at both ends. The rock formations at Reechgarh are a result of an ancient river cutting through mountains over many years. 

The ridge between two colossal rocks, wider at the base and tapering towards the top, creates a striking silhouette. The 400-meter-long rift, with its treacherous, uneven, and narrow path, adds to the excitement. The name "Reechgarh," meaning "Bear's Fort," is a nod to the sloth bears (Rreech in Hindi) that once called this place home.

To reach Reechgarh, you'll need to scramble over boulders and squeeze through a narrow canyon. The real thrill is the journey through the natural rift, twisting and turning your way into a hidden forest. The cool, refreshing breeze that accompanies you on this journey is simply enchanting.

Bee Falls: A Refreshing Escape into Nature

Pachmarhi is blessed with numerous enchanting waterfalls. Among these, Bee Falls, also known as Jamuna Prapat, stands out as a captivating natural wonder. Cascading down a rocky cliff, Bee Falls mesmerizes visitors with its sheer beauty. The waterfall's name is derived from the beehives that once dotted its surroundings. Surrounded by lush greenery, the falls create a serene and refreshing ambiance, making it an ideal spot for nature enthusiasts and photographers.

The falls are divided into two parts. The first part is easily accessible via a short, stepped trail. It's a popular picnic spot and swimming hole, offering a refreshing escape from the heat. To reach the main fall, one must embark on a challenging descent into the gorge. While the journey is arduous, the reward is breathtaking: a magnificent waterfall cascading down a lush valley. However, due to the steep climb and slippery conditions during the monsoon, the main fall is not recommended for children and the elderly.

Handi Khoh: A Natural Wonder in Central India

Handi Khoh, a breathtaking ravine carved by the Dhoopgarh River, is one of Central India's most stunning natural wonders. This unique rock formation, resembling a giant pot ("handi" in Hindi), is steeped in mythology. Legend has it that the site was once a vast lake guarded by a demonic serpent. Enraged, Lord Shiva destroyed the creature, causing the lake to drain and form the distinctive shape of a pot.

Handi Khoh, a 300-foot-deep V-shaped canyon, carved by two imposing hills and shrouded in lush greenery, offers a tranquil escape. The surrounding landscape, a breathtaking panorama of hills and valleys adorned with diverse flora and fauna, is a haven for nature lovers. The canyon is a haven for hikers, trekkers, and photographers, seeking tranquility and adventure.

The Mystical Jata Shankar Cave : A Divine Abode of Lord Shiva

Hidden within a deep gorge adorned with colossal boulders, the Jata Shankar Cave holds immense religious significance for Hindus. Legend has it that Lord Shiva sought refuge here to escape the wrath of the demon Bhasmasur. This stunning limestone cave, named after the stalactite and stalagmite formations resembling Lord Shiva's matted hair, is a sight to behold. The cave's ceiling boasts an intriguing formation that mirrors the mythical hundred-headed serpent, Seshnag. Additionally, numerous natural stalagmites, revered as Shiva lingas, dot the cave's interior. One of the most intriguing aspects of this sacred site is the 'Gupt Ganga’, a mysterious stream that flows from an unseen source. To reach this divine sanctuary, visitors must embark on a scenic trek of approximately 1 kilometer, followed by a descent of 150 steps.

Pandava Caves: Echoes of the Epic

Perched atop a hillock in the heart of Pachmarhi, five ancient caves, known as the Pandava Caves, are carved into the rock face. Legend has it that these caves were sculpted by the Pandava brothers during their exile. Each cave is believed to have been a shelter for one of the Pandavas: Yudhishthira, Arjuna, Nakula, Sahadeva, and Bhima, as well as their wife, Draupadi. Of all the caves, 'Draupadi Kuti' is the most well-lit and airy, while 'Bhim Kothari,' the cave attributed to the powerful Bhima, is the darkest and most mysterious.

These ancient caves are shrouded with many stories belonging to various eras and were lastly served as a tranquil retreat for meditation and spiritual contemplation by Buddhist Monks during the 1st century AD. The presence of a stupa like structure on the hilltop reinforces their Buddhist significance. Today, these protected monuments attract visitors who seek to connect with history and experience a sense of tranquility.

Christ Church, Pachmarhi : A Peaceful Sanctuary

Surrounded by the tranquil beauty of Pachmarhi amidst the lush greenery, Christ Church, also called the Protestant Church of Pachmarhi. This church, built in memories of British General Frankwod Morus by his friends, stands as a testament to the region's colonial past. Constructed in 1875, this Gothic-style church boasts a unique blend of Irish, French, and British architectural influences. Its most striking feature is the unsupported nave, a marvel of engineering that has withstood the test of time. The church's stained-glass windows, imported from Belgium, add a touch of European elegance to this serene sanctuary. Although it primarily serves as a place of worship for the local Christian community, Christ Church remains a popular tourist attraction, offering visitors a glimpse into the region's rich history and cultural heritage.

Bada Mahadev Cave: A Mystic Abode of Shiva

Eleven kilometers from Pachmarhi stands the majestic Mahadev Hills (4406 ft), the second-highest peak in Madhya Pradesh. At its base lies the revered Bada Mahadev Cave, home to a massive Shiva Linga known as the Bada Mahadev. Legend has it that Lord Vishnu, in the form of Mohini, slayed the demon Bhasmasura here. This cave is a significant pilgrimage site symbolizing the triumph of good over evil.

A 300-meter walk from the parking area leads to the 60-foot-long cave. Inside, along with the Shiva Linga, are the idols of Brahma, Vishnu, and Ganesha. Water, a constant companion, trickles down the cave's walls and ceiling. Across a hilly stream are two smaller caves, the Parvati Cave and the Kal Dev Cave, dedicated to Goddess Parvati and Kal Dev that add to the spiritual aura of the place. Bada Mahadev serves as the starting point for the ascent to the Chouraghrh Temple, also known as Chota Mahadev Temple, atop the third-highest peak of Madhya Pradesh.

Chauragarh Peak : A Divine Summit

About 15 kilometers from Pachmarhi, the majestic Chauragarh, the third-highest peak in Madhya Pradesh, stands tall at 4,350 feet. Perched atop this hill, surrounded by breathtaking valleys and verdant landscapes, is the ancient Chouragarh Temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva. Also known as the Chhota Mahadev Temple, it is believed to have been constructed during the medieval era. A challenging 1,365-step climb from the Mahadev Caves leads to this serene temple. Renowned as a significant Hindu pilgrimage site, Chauragarh Temple draws thousands of devotees during the Shivaratri Mela. The temple is unique for its countless tridents, offered by pilgrims as tokens of gratitude for fulfilled wishes. The sunrise from here is a mesmerizing spectacle and the surrounding forested valleys offer stunning vistas. Pilgrims and tourists alike visit this temple to seek blessings and admire the natural beauty. Beyond the temple, the ruins of the historic Chouragarh Fort offer panoramic views of the region. The fort, with its ancient structures and temples, is a testament to the area's rich history. While the trek to the to Chouragarh is demanding, the reward is a breathtaking vista that makes the journey worthwhile.

Other Key Attractions in Pachmarhi

In addition to the well-known attractions, Pachmarhi offers stunning natural landscapes such as Priyadarshini Point, Duchess Falls, and Apsara Vihar. Here it is pertinent to mention the hidden archaeological heritage of Pachmarhi Biosphere, the Rock Shelters and Rock Paintings. Regrettably, I was unable to undertake a visit to any of these sites, but thankfully could gather some valuable insight from local forest authorities and experienced guides.

Beyond the Beauty : Prehistoric Rock Arts in Satpura Range

Most people are not aware that the enchanting Satpura Range also holds a rich archaeological heritage, the pre-historic Rock Shelters with ancient Rock Paintings, some dating back to Mesolithic and Neolithic age. These historical artifacts were first documented by British archaeologist G.R. Hunter in the year 1935.

Pachmarhi and the Mahadeo Hills boast 55 identified rock shelters, one of Madhya Pradesh's richest concentrations of rock art. These shelters, most often situated within dense forests at challenging heights, contain numerous red and white paintings, with occasional yellow and other accents. Sadly, these ancient relics are facing the ravages of time and human impact. Exposure to the natural elements and, more worryingly, the actions of visitors who do not share the same beliefs as the local tribal Gonds and Korkus about the sacredness of the paintings, have led to significant damage to the paintings. Thanks to the dedicated work of independent rock art researchers like Dr. Meenakshi Dubey-Pathak, an international expert for ICOMOS and UNESCO, government authorities have begun taking steps to improve the situation since the early 2010s.

Best time to visit:

Dubbed as the "Queen of Satpura", Pachmarhi offers distinct experiences during the monsoon and winter seasons, each with its unique charm:

Monsoon Season (July-September) :  Monsoon transforms Pachmarhi into a vibrant green paradise. The hillsides are adorned with lush foliage and the waterfalls cascade with full vigor. The hill station very often remains shrouded in mist, creating a mystical and romantic atmosphere. Fewer crowds during this season allow for a more peaceful and serene experience. At the same time, monsoon comes with it's share of challenges. The roads can become slippery, and some trails may be inaccessible due to heavy rainfall.

Winter Season (October-February) : The winter months definitely offer pleasant weather with clear skies and comfortable temperatures. The panoramic views of the Satpura Range are breathtaking, especially during sunrise and sunset. The clear weather and dry trails make it perfect for exploring the numerous hiking trails in the area. However, due to short daylight hours, some attractions may permit limited time. Further, with high tourist inflow, Pachmarhi loses it's tranquility during that time.

Ultimately, the best time to visit Pachmarhi depends on your preferences. No matter which season you choose, Pachmarhi is sure to enchant you with its natural beauty and tranquil ambiance.

How to reach Pachmarhi:

By Air: The nearest airport is in Bhopal, offering convenient flights to major Indian cities. For alternative options, Nagpur and Jabalpur airports are also relatively close.

By Train: The nearest railway station is Pipariya, providing rail connections to all major cities. Itarsi, a significant rail junction, and Chhindwara are additional nearby railheads.

By Road: Pachmarhi is well-connected by road to major cities within Madhya Pradesh, making it accessible by car or bus.

Accommodation :

As one of India's premier tourist destinations, Pachmarhi offers a diverse range of accommodations to suit every budget. However, especially during peak season, it's wise to byour stay in advance. For an unforgettable experience, based upon my own experience I suggest trying MPT Rock End Manor and MPT Hotel Highland. These MP Tourism properties offer not just comfort and luxury but also breathtaking views and a unique colonial charm.

· MPT Rock End Manor: A Colonial Charm : MPT Rock End Manor is a heritage hotel that exudes old-world charm. Originally a British bungalow, it has been meticulously restored to retain its colonial architecture and ambiance. The hotel's strategic location atop a small hillock offers panoramic views of the surrounding hills, making it an ideal spot for nature lovers. The rooms are spacious, well-appointed, and equipped with modern amenities. The elegant décor of the colonial period, coupled with the warm hospitality, creates a truly memorable experience. The on-site restaurant serves a delectable range of Indian and Continental cuisine. The cozy ambiance and the breathtaking views make dining here a truly delightful experience.

· MPT Hotel Highland: A Modern Retreat with classical touch : MPT Hotel Highland, a historic British-era barracks, seamlessly blends old-world charm with contemporary comforts. Its prime location in Pachmarhi offers easy access to major attractions. The hotel's restaurant delights with a diverse menu of Indian and Continental cuisine, and its buffet breakfast is not to be missed.

Tips for a comfortable and safe trip:

· Pack for Comfort: Wear comfortable clothing and sturdy footwear for plenty of walking and hiking.

· Consider Physical Abilities: Steep ascents, descents, and rocky terrain at sites like Reechgarh, Jatashankar Cave, Chouragarh, and Bee Falls may not be suitable for elderly individuals or those with back or knee issues.

·  Sun Protection: Depending on the season, bring sunscreen, a hat, and sunglasses.

·  Stay Hydrated: Drink plenty of water to stay hydrated.

·  Preserve Nature: Respect the environment and avoid littering.

· Capture the Moment: Bring a camera to capture the breathtaking scenery, but always prioritize safety, especially when taking photos near cliffs or steep drops.

·   Plan Ahead: Book your accommodation in advance, especially during peak season.

Conclusion :

Pachmarhi, nestled amidst the Satpura Range, is rightfully crowned the "Queen of Satpura." This picturesque hill station boasts breathtaking landscapes, including cascading waterfalls, deep gorges, and verdant valleys. As the highest point in Central India, it offers panoramic views that mesmerize visitors. The region's rich biodiversity, encompassing diverse flora and fauna, adds to its allure. Pachmarhi's historical significance, evident in ancient caves and temples, further enhances its charm. Whether you're seeking tranquility or adrenaline-pumping activities, Pachmarhi has something to offer everyone. These combined factors make it a captivating destination, earning it the prestigious title of the "Queen of Satpura."

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