A Day in Pakistan: My Kartarpur Sahib Yatra - A Dream Fulfilled, A Journey Remembered

My Kartarpur Sahib Yatra: From Baltistan Dreams to Kartarpur Realities

I'm consistently impressed by the breathtaking beauty showcased in reels and posts about Gilgit-Baltistan. My recent visit to the Balti villages of Turtuk and Thang in Ladakh, where I got opportunity to interact with the Balti people, only deepened my appreciation for the region's unique landscapes. It's unfortunate that the majority of Gilgit-Baltistan falls within Pakistan, a country which never figures in my wish list while planning for any foreign country travel.

However, the Kartarpur Corridor sparked a strong desire to visit Sri Kartarpur Sahib in Pakistan soil. I've attempted to plan a trip there few times over the past 2-3 years, but circumstances always intervened, the major being the travel restrictions and formalities.

The Waiting Game: From Uncertainty to Excitement

This time, I applied for travel authorization well in advance, but the prolonged silence made me uncertain. Then, about two weeks before my intended visit, I received a call from the local police, asking about my Kartarpur Sahib application. Few days thereafter, someone from the Ministry of Home Affairs (MoH) called with a similar inquiry. I almost dismissed the MoH call as fraudulent, but thankfully I didn't, as that would have been a missed opportunity.

The waiting continued, though. The guidelines stated that approved applicants would receive their Electronic Travel Authorization (ETA) via email and SMS. As the days dwindled, no message arrived, increasing my anxiety. Fortunately, I regularly checked the application website. Just three days before my planned departure, I finally saw the "approved" status and downloaded my ETA. I was absolutely thrilled and incredibly excited.

A Brief Overview of Kartarpur: A Center of Sikh Faith and Heritage

Before we embark on this spiritual journey, let me briefly introduce the Gurdwara Darbar Sahib Kartarpur shrine and the Kartarpur Corridor.

Gurdwara Sri Kartarpur Sahib:

Sri Kartarpur Sahib, located in Kartarpur, Narowal, Pakistan, just across the border from Dera Baba Nanak, India, holds immense significance for Sikhs globally. "Kartarpur" translates to "the abode of the Creator," and this settlement was established by Guru Nanak Dev around 1504 CE. It was his final resting place, where he spent the last 18 years of his life and established the first Sikh commune. This community exemplified equality, communal living, and selfless service, embodying a utopian society. Here, Guru Nanak Dev and his followers cultivated land, shared resources, and spread the message of universal brotherhood. It's believed he also articulated the three cardinal principles of Sikhism here: Naam Japna (Remembering God's name), Kirat Karni (Earning an honest living), and Vand Chakna (Sharing with others). Consequently, Kartarpur is revered as one of Sikhism's holiest sites, second only to the Golden Temple in Amritsar.

The Gurdwara Darbar Sahib Kartarpur commemorates the site of Guru Nanak Dev's death. The original gurdwara, built to mark where he is believed to have attained "Joti Jot" (union with the Divine) in 1539, was damaged and subsequently rebuilt. Today's magnificent Gurdwara Darbar Sahib Kartarpur attracts millions of pilgrims of all faiths, predominantly Sikhs.

The Kartarpur Corridor:

Before India's partition in 1947, Kartarpur was part of the undivided Punjab Province. The partition resulted in Kartarpur Sahib falling within Pakistan, severely limiting access to this sacred Sikh shrine for those in India. Despite being the second holiest site of Sikhism, second only to the Golden Temple in Amritsar, for the last 73 years Darbar Sahib Kartarpur could only be seen through binocular from Dera Baba Nanak. However, this changed significantly with the inauguration of the Kartarpur Corridor on 9th November 2019 to mark the 550th Prakash Purb of Guru Nanak Dev Ji. The Kartarpur Corridor, a secure passage of 4.7 kilometers long, links the Dera Baba Nanak ICP in India to Kartarpur Sahib in Pakistan crossing the Ravi River Bridge. Every day 5000 people use the facility to visit the Kartarpur Sahib. This visa-free corridor now allows Sikh pilgrims from India to easily visit Kartarpur Sahib, fostering greater religious and cultural exchange between the two nations. The Dera Baba Nanak ICP itself is a marvel of engineering, adorned with intricate artwork and symbols of Sikhism.

Journey to Kartarpur: A Step-by-Step Guide

The Kartarpur Sahib Corridor provides visa-free access to Indian Sikh pilgrims to visit the Gurdwara Darbar Sahib in Kartarpur, Pakistan. To visit, Indian citizens must obtain an Electronic Travel Authorization (ETA) online. Here's a breakdown of the eligibility and process:

Eligibility:

· This pilgrimage is open to Indian citizens only (non-Indian citizens are not eligible), with no age restrictions.

· Applicants must possess a valid Indian passport.

· Applicants must be fully vaccinated against COVID-19.

 Online Registration & Application process:

· Register and apply at least 15 days in advance from the proposed date of travel

· Visit the official website: https://prakashpurb550.mha.gov.in/ 

· Fill out the online registration form with accurate personal details.

· Upload a scanned copy of your passport-size photograph.

· Upload a scanned copies of first and last pages of your Passport

· Submit the completed form online.

· You will receive a provisional acknowledgement slip with a registration number.

 ETA Issuance process:

· Application Processing: Your application will be processed by the system.

· Verification: You may receive an inquiry or verification call from your local police authority, the Ministry of Home Affairs (MoH), or both.

· ETA Issuance: The Electronic Travel Authorization (ETA) is a bar-coded authorization slip containing your details and travel date. It is valid only for the specified travel date. Upon approval, you should receive an ETA via SMS or email. However, it's crucial to regularly check your application status on the website, as email/SMS notifications are not always reliable. (This was my experience.)

· ETA Confirmation: ETA approval is typically confirmed only 3-4 days before your intended travel date.

Crossing to Kartarpur: Immigration and Travel Procedures:

· Arrival at Dera Baba Nanak ICP: On your travel date, report to the Dera Baba Nanak Integrated Check Post (ICP) with your passport and printed ETA.

· Same-Day Return: Pilgrims are permitted to visit only Gurdwara Darbar Sahib and must return the same day. An earlier arrival allows for more time at the Gurdwara.

· Polio Drop administration: You will be administered with Polio Drops before proceeding for immigration. This is mandatory precautionary step as Pakistan is still not a Polio Free Country.

· Indian Immigration: Your passport and ETA will be verified, and you'll complete Indian immigration clearance. Security personnel will also provide a briefing on permitted and prohibited activities.

· Border Crossing: You will be transported to the Indo-Pak border post by battery rickshaw, where you'll cross into Pakistan. From there, you'll be taken to the Pakistan Immigration Complex by bus.

· Pakistan Immigration: Present your passport and ETA for verification. Pay the $20 travel fee at the counter.

· Visitor Pass and ID: You will receive a visitor's pass and a color-coded visitor ID card (yellow for those entering from India, blue for those from Pakistan), which must be worn at all times until your return.

· Travel to Gurdwara: After clearing Pakistan immigration, you will be taken across Ravi River to the Gurdwara Complex by bus.

· The Last check post: After passing through the last security check you will be reaching the main entrance of the Gurdwara complex where a Pakistani Security personnel will brief visitors about the do’s and don’ts.

· Departure: You must leave Pakistan before 5 PM.

Other Practical Information and Regulations:

· ETA Application: Apply for your Electronic Travel Authorization (ETA) well in advance of your intended travel date.

· Luggage Allowance: Pilgrims are allowed a maximum of 7 kg of luggage.

· Food and Water: You may bring food and drinking water.

· Travel Fee: A $20 travel fee per person is payable at the Pakistan Immigration Counter. While currency exchange may be available there, it's strongly recommended to bring US dollars with you.

· Prohibited Items: When returning, souvenirs, garments, and food items are permitted. However, bringing back Pakistani currency, souvenirs displaying the Pakistani flag, soil, and any kind of seeds is strictly prohibited and carries a risk of severe penalties.

By following these steps, eligible Indian citizens can obtain the necessary ETA and undertake a smooth pilgrimage to Gurdwara Darbar Sahib in Kartarpur.

And Our Journey Begins: Setting Foot on the Path

The Kartarpur Corridor journey begins at the Dera Baba Nanak Integrated Check Post (ICP), near the Punjab border town of Dera Baba Nanak. This peaceful town is easily accessible from Amritsar by both rail and road. While the early morning DMEU train is a convenient option, we chose to travel by cab from Amritsar, passing through Dera Baba Nanak en route to the ICP.

After completing verification and immigration at the Dera Baba Nanak ICP, we took a battery rickshaw to the Indian side of the border and then walked into Pakistan. The warm welcome we received from Pakistani Army personnel, with their broad smiles, was immediately noticeable. Pakistani soldiers expressed their delight at our arrival. From the border post, we were transported by bus to the Pakistan Immigration Centre.

There, after verifying our ETA and passports, and paying the $20 travel fee, we received an entry slip and a yellow visitor's card with a matching wristband, which we were required to wear throughout our visit. Pakistan immigration doesn't stamp passports; instead, they issue this entry slip, which we had to keep safe. From the immigration center, we were taken by bus to the last check post near the Gurdwara Complex. We walked through the check post and reached Darsan Deori, the main entrance to the Gurdwara Complex, where a Pakistani security officer briefed us on the rules and regulations within the complex.

Exploring Kartarpur Sahib: A Sanctuary of Peace and Harmony:

A visit to Gurdwara Kartarpur Sahib is a truly humbling experience. The tranquil atmosphere, melodious kirtan audible from the main entrance, and pervasive sense of devotion create a profound sense of peace. The sprawling complex houses several key areas, each contributing to the spiritual, historical, and communal significance of this holy site.

Upon entering through the Darsan Deori, we reached the well maintained Joda Ghar (the Shoe House) to deposit our shoes. Walking ahead we came across the serene and immaculately maintained Sarovar, an essential feature of any Gurdwara, which offers pilgrims a place for ritual bathing, symbolizing purification.

At the heart of the sprawling complex stands the Holy Darbar Sahib, where the Guru Granth Sahib, Sikhism's Holy Scripture, is enshrined. Its architecture blends traditional Sikh styles with modern design, creating an awe-inspiring space for prayer and connection with the divine.

The Nishan Sahib, the Sikh religious flag, flies proudly adjacent the entrance of Darbar Sahib, symbolizing the community's presence and commitment to their faith. Nearby, is the Khue Sahib, the holy well with a Persian wheel used by Guru Nanak Dev Ji, that provides water considered sacred and used in various rituals.

The Langar Hall at one end of the complex embodies the Sikh principle of selfless service, providing free meals to all visitors regardless of background. At the opposite end of the complex is placed The Khanda, a prominent Sikh symbol often displayed representing the balance between spiritual and temporal power. The Khanda represents the Sikh doctrine “Deg Tegh Fateh” coined by the great Sikh warrior Banda Singh Bahadur and was later adopted by Sardar Jassa Singh Ahluwalia. This translates to “Victory to Charity and Arms” that signifies the Khalsa’s responsibility to protect and feed the needy and oppressed.

Finally, the Kheti Sahib/Baba ka Bagh, an agricultural area believed to have been cultivated by Guru Nanak Dev Ji, offers a tranquil space for reflection amidst natural beauty, further enhancing the peaceful atmosphere of the Gurdwara.

Within the Gurdwara complex, a museum displays artifacts related to Guru Nanak Dev's life and teachings. Souvenirs are also available for purchase.

Kartarpur Market, a small market complex adjacent to the Gurdwara Complex, offers a wider selection of items, including souvenirs, clothing, dry fruits, sweets, and other food products. While some vendors accept Indian currency, many prefer Pakistani currency, which can be obtained at an on-site exchange counter. Visitors are strongly advised not to bring Pakistani currency or items displaying the Pakistani flag, as this could lead to serious difficulties at the border crossing.

Concluding our Visit to Kartarpur Sahib:

We spent a peaceful and prayerful time at Durbar Sahib, immersed in its tranquility and devotion. We enjoyed a fulfilling meal at the Langar Hall and participated in some Kar Seva. During our visit, we interacted with Pakistani pilgrims, easily identifiable by their blue visitor passes and bands (ours were yellow). They were very friendly and seemed genuinely happy to talk and share their perspectives with us. We also explored the market complex, doing some shopping and chatting with the shopkeepers.

As the day ended, we reluctantly left Kartarpur Sahib, carrying with us the Guru's blessings and the memories of a deeply spiritual experience.

Our Kartarpur Sahib Experience: Joys, Laughter and Reflections:

By the grace of Wahe Guru, our long-awaited pilgrimage to the holy Sri Kartarpur Sahib was a deeply fulfilling experience. The journey was filled with memorable moments, a mix of excitement, joy, humor, and even a few disappointments. Here are some of the highlights.

Moments of excitement:

· The ETA Approval : The thrill of receiving the long-awaited approval of my ETA was the highlight of my preparations for the Kartarpur visit.

· Crossing the Line:  Stepping across the stark white line that separated India and Pakistan was a moment of pure exhilaration. Though I've traveled many a country, crossing this border, a line fraught with history and significance, was truly a momentous occasion.

· Divine Presence at Darbar Sahib: Standing at the Darbar Sahib and bowing in reverence before the Guru Granth Sahib with a sense of spiritual connection was a deeply moving experience.

Moments of Joy:

· Positive First Impressions:  It was a very pleasant experience to cross the border into Pakistan and be greeted by the warm smiles and friendly demeanor of the Pakistani Army personnel. Their welcoming attitude immediately put me at ease.

· Genuine Warmth:  What truly made my visit memorable was the opportunity to freely interact with Pakistani civilians. They were incredibly enthusiastic about engaging in conversations with us, extending a level of hospitality that was both open-hearted and genuine. There was absolutely no trace of animosity, making us feel genuinely welcomed and comfortable throughout our interactions.

Funniest Moments:

· The Polio Drops: The funniest thing that happened was polio drops given at the ICP. On asking why I need this at this advanced age, they told me that Polio has been completely eradicated from India and they don't want us to bring it back from Pakistan.

· The Great Golgappa Negotiation in Pakistan:  One of the funniest moments of our trip was when we spent a long time bargaining with a Pakistani shopkeeper at Kartarpur Market to get a good deal on golgappa. Eighty Pakistani Rupees for one plate of five golgappas – that's the final price! Hahaha!

Moments of despair:

· A Journey Without a Mark : Even though my passport has stamps from many countries, I was disappointed to learn that it won't receive a Pakistani immigration stamp, despite my having traveled there using it.

· Inappropriate Display near the Darbar Sahib: My trip was otherwise wonderful, but I was deeply disappointed by something I saw near the Darbar Sahib. The display of a mortar bomb remnant and accompanying plaque (reading "Indian Air Force dropped this bomb during 1971 at Gurdwara Darbar Sahib Kartarpur Sahib with the aim to destroy it. However, the evil design could not be maretialised due to the BLESSING of WAHEGURU JI (Almighty ALLAH). The said bomb landed into Sri Khoo Sahib (Sacred Well) and this Darbar Sahib remained unhurt. ==") felt entirely inappropriate for such a sacred space. I even overheard other Pakistani visitors expressing similar feelings.

Conclusion:

My Kartarpur Sahib Yatra was a deeply personal and transformative experience. Beyond the breathtaking sights and the rich history, it was the human connections that truly resonated. From the warm smiles of the Pakistani soldiers to the openhearted conversations with local pilgrims and shopkeepers, I encountered a spirit of welcome and shared humanity that transcended national boundaries. While the logistical hurdles and the jarring exhibit near the Darbar Sahib served as reminders of the complexities that exist, they couldn't diminish the overwhelming sense of peace and spiritual fulfillment I found at the Gurdwara. The journey to Kartarpur was more than just a trip; it was a reminder of the power of faith, the importance of dialogue, and the enduring hope for a more harmonious future. It's an experience that will stay with me long after I crossed back over that stark white line, a testament to the enduring legacy of Guru Nanak Dev Ji and his message of universal brotherhood.

वाहेगुरु जी दा खालसा, वाहेगुरु जी दी फतेह ।

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