My Trans-Himalayan Odyssey - Lahaul, Spiti & Kinnaur : Part – 7 - Dhankar Monastery, Tabo Monastery, Caves, Gue Monastery, Nako Monastery

From the Dust of Spiti to the Green of Kinnaur : Dhankar Monastery, Tabo Monastery, Caves, Gue Monastery, Nako Monastery

“This post continues the story from my previous post in the “My Himalayan Odyssey” series, which you can read at www.ghumnechalo.in”

My Trans-Himalayan Odyssey - Part 6 : The Ocean in the Clouds: A Journey Through Spiti’s High Hamlets Langza, Komik, Hikkim, Pin Valley & Kungri  (https://www.ghumnechalo.in/post/my-trans-himalayan-odyssey-part-6-langza-komik-hikkim-pin-valley-kungri)

Into the Spiritual Heart : Leaving the Spiti Spires Behind

Leaving behind the raw, unparalleled majesty of the Spiti hinterland and the pristine silence of Pin Valley, we began our descent into the region’s spiritual core. Following the lifeline of the Spiti River, the landscape began a slow metamorphosis—the harsh, monochromatic beauty of the cold desert gradually surrendering to the vibrant green of the Kinnaur pastures. Over the next three days, our journey would weave through the historic and strategic bastions of Spiti’s faith before settling into the quintessential charm of Kinnaur’s villages. Our first stop on this path of transition: the cliffside sanctuary of Dhankar Monastery.

Traversing the Kaza-Shimla Highway, we crossed the vital link bridge spanning the Lingti stream. In the heart of winter, the nearby waterfall transforms into a breathtaking pillar of ice, a frozen masterpiece of nature. Taking a sharp turn after the bridge, we left the highway behind. The road climbed steeply against the mountain’s face, offering a dizzying view of the Spiti River snaking through the valley floor far below, until the ancient silhouette of Dhankar finally came into view.

Dhankar, the "Fort Monastery": The Sentinel of Spiti

Perched precariously on a cliffside at an altitude of nearly 12,776 feet, Dhankar Monastery (Dhangkar Gompa) is more than just a religious site—it is a defiance of gravity. Once the capital of the Spiti Valley kingdom, this "Fort on a Cliff" remains one of the most spectacular sights in the Indian Himalayas. Built in 12^th century, Dhankar is  a "fort-monastery" belonging to the Gelugpa school of Tibetan Buddhism. 

It sits atop a 300-meter high spur of soft sedimentary soil and weathered rock, overlooking the confluence of the Spiti and Pin Rivers. The landscape is a high-altitude cold desert and the mountain slop around the monastery is surrounded by jagged, wind-eroded pinnacles that look like natural sand towers, giving the entire area a surreal, lunar appearance like the Lamayuru Monastery in Ladakh.

Unlike monasteries built on solid rock, Dhankar is built on "knobby" soil formations. This makes it one of the most endangered historical sites in the world. The complex is a labyrinth of mud-brick buildings, narrow stairways, and dark passages. It traditionally housed the local community during times of war. Inside, the Lakhang (main temple) and the Duhang (assembly hall) are adorned with ancient thangkas, murals, and a famous statue of Vairochana (the Meditating Buddha) consisting of four figures seated back-to-back.

The word "Dhankar" literally means Dhang (cliff) and Kar (fort). In the 17th century, Dhankar was the seat of the Nonos (the Kings of Spiti) and justifying its name, it served as a palace, a treasury, and a prison. Its location was chosen for purely tactical reasons: From its high vantage point, the monastery offers an unobstructed view of the entire valley. This allowed the kings to spot invading armies from Tibet or Ladakh miles before they arrived. The vertical drops on almost all sides made it virtually impregnable to traditional infantry.

Today, Dhankar is at a crossroads. Erosion and the fragile nature of the cliff put the ancient structure at risk of collapse. Organizations like the World Monuments Fund have flagged it as a high-priority site. To visit Dhankar is to witness a disappearing world—a masterpiece of human endurance suspended between the earth and the heavens.

Masters of Camouflage: Meeting the Elusive Bharal

As we began our descent from Dhankar to rejoin the highway, our vehicle suddenly screeched to a halt on a mountain hairpin. A flash of panic hit us—was there something wrong with the road? But Rajinder, our driver, calmly gestured for us to step out and peer down the slope. There, hidden in plain sight among the scrub and shadows, was a small herd of the elusive Bharal. The Bharal (also known as Blue Sheep) is a master of camouflage and a vital part of the trans-Himalayan ecosystem.  Despite their name, they aren't actually blue. Their slate-grey coat has a distinct bluish tint that helps them vanish against the jagged limestone cliffs and scree slopes of Spiti. They are so well-blended with the Spiti landscape that you can often look directly at a herd and not see them until they move. Seeing these legendary Blue Sheep in the wild transformed our momentary fear into pure wonder.

The "Ajanta of the Himalayas": A Thousand Years of Mud and Murals

By early afternoon, we arrived at the riverside village of Tabo. Nestled amidst stark, barren slopes, this lush pocket of greenery is home to the legendary Tabo Monastery. Often hailed as the 'Ajanta of the Himalayas' for its ancient treasures, the village felt like a vibrant oasis rising from the high-altitude desert. Intrigued by the alluring title "Ajanta of the Himalayas", we made two day's stop at Tabo to explore the Tabo Monastery and its fascinating caves.

Tabo Monastery nestled in the serene village of Tabo in the Spiti Valley at an altitude of approximately 10,760 feet. Unlike many monasteries in Ladakh or Spiti that are perched on high ridges, Tabo is uniquely located at the bottom of a valley on a flat mountain shelf close to the Spiti riverbed. Surrounded by stark, brown peaks, the monastery remains protected from the heavy monsoon rains that lash the lower Himalayas, which has helped preserve its delicate mud structures.

The Tabo Monastery, founded in 996 CE, is a stunning example of ancient Buddhist architecture and art. This remarkable complex, constructed entirely of mud, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The complex houses nine temples and 23 chortens (stupas). All the nine temples are intricately adorned with breathtaking murals, frescoes, sculptures, the most significant is the Temple of the Enlightened Gods (Tsug Lhakhang), which serves as the core of the monastery. The murals depict the life of Buddha and various Bodhisattvas in a style that blends Indian (Kashmiri) and Tibetan aesthetics. These exquisite artworks, showcasing a unique fusion of Indian and Central Asian styles, are truly what earn it the title "Ajanta of the Himalayas". More than just a historical site, Tabo Monastery is a vibrant hub for Buddhist learning and culture, housing ancient manuscripts and serving as a spiritual sanctuary amidst the rugged Himalayan terrain.

Echoes of Silence: The Meditation Caves of Tabo

Even more intriguing than the monastery itself are the caves carved into the cliffs above it. Just above the monastery, carved into the cliffside, are ancient meditation caves. These were used by monks for solitary retreats and deep meditation (Sadhana). Even today, the spiritual energy in these "meditation cells" is palpable, offering a glimpse into the ascetic lives of the practitioners. For over a thousand years, these caves provided a secluded haven for monks, offering shelter from the harsh Spiti winters and an ideal environment for deep meditation. Some of these multi-story caves feature rooms smoothly carved from the rock, connected by narrow passages.

While there's no separate detailed history just for the caves, their story is deeply intertwined with the monastery's. The entire Tabo complex, including these ancient caves, holds the distinction of being the oldest continuously operating Buddhist enclave in both India and the Himalayas. This speaks volumes about an unbroken tradition of Buddhist practice that has thrived for over a millennium.

Where Time Stands Still: The Centuries of Tabo

Tabo is one of the holiest sites in Tibetan Buddhism, specifically within the Gelugpa (Yellow Hat) school. It is the oldest continuously operating Buddhist monastery in India and the Himalayas. His Holiness the 14th Dalai Lama has expressed his desire to retire to Tabo, highlighting its immense spiritual sanctity. He also held the prestigious Kalachakra ceremony here in 1983 and 1996.

Tabo is a place where time seems to slow down. Whether you are standing in the dim, incense-scented halls of the Main Temple or looking down from the silent caves, the "Ajanta of the Himalayas" offers a profound sense of peace and historical weight.

Having immersed ourselves in the timeless beauty of Tabo’s monastery and caves, and after two quiet days by the Spiti River, we set our sights on Nako. Our route would soon take us through the Sumdo checkpoint, where we would leave Spiti behind and slip into the lush greenery of the Kinnaur Valley.

However, just a few kilometers before the border crossing, we took a northward detour away from the highway. We were heading toward the Indo-China frontier to witness one of the world's rarest phenomena: the Mummy Temple of the Himalayas.

Beyond Egypt: The Self-Mummified Monk of the Himalayas

While Egyptian mummies captivate the world with their ancient mysteries, India holds its own remarkable and often overlooked marvel: the 500-year-old natural mummy of Buddhist monk, Lama Sangha Tenzin, housed at the Gue Monastery. Carbon dating places his death around the 15th century.

 What makes Sangha Tenzin's mummy so particularly striking is its natural preservation in a seated, meditative posture, with his skin, hair, and even teeth still remarkably intact. Local lore further enhances his mystique, claiming his hair and nails continue to grow, leading many to revere him as a "Living Buddha" or "Living God."

Unlike the chemically preserved mummies of Egypt, Sangha Tenzin's body is believed to be the result of a rare and incredibly demanding process of self-mummification, known as "Sokushinbutsu". This method involved an extreme ascetic practice, where the monk would gradually reduce sustenance to naturally dehydrate the body and eliminate fat. This, combined with the specific environmental conditions of the region, led to his preservation. While both Egyptian and Buddhist mummification preserved human remains, the former was an external, intentional, and chemical process for the afterlife, whereas Sangha Tenzin's mummification was a natural, self-induced act rooted deeply in Buddhist spiritual traditions.

The mummy was accidentally discovered in 1975 following an earthquake that opened an old tomb. However, it wasn't until 2004 that the Indo-Tibetan Border Police (ITBP) fully excavated it during road construction.

An interesting thing worth mentioning; The Gue Monastery itself is placed very close to the India-China (Tibet) border, so that very often mobile phones in the area catching China time, which is two and a half hour ahead of Indian Standard Time.

Gue Monastery offers a rare intersection of forensic mystery and ancient faith. It’s a place that challenges our understanding of biology and reinforces the spiritual depth of the Himalayan people. It isn't just a destination; it's an encounter with a man who, quite literally, refused to leave his post.

Nako: The High-Altitude Oasis Where Time Stands Still

After a two weeks strenuous and at times risky journey in high Himalaya, we highly needed some break. And there was no better place to find it than in Nako, a traditional Himachali village with over thousand years of history.

At an elevation of approximately 12,014 feet, Nako, the highest village in Kinnaur valley is a picturesque and tranquil village nestled among brown mountains with distant snow-capped peaks. It's built around a small, beautiful high-altitude lake, the Nako Lake. At the heart of the village, the Nako Lake is fringed by willow and poplar trees. It is a feat of nature that this body of water remains liquid in summer and transforms into a natural ice rink in winter. The circumambulation (Kora) around Nako Lake is believed to cleanse a lifetime of negative karma.

Nako’s Living Heritage: A Masterclass in Himalayan Architecture

The houses in Nako are built with traditional materials like stone and mud, designed to withstand the harsh arid and cold climate of the Himalayas. Their roofs feature layers of skinned Eucalyptus tree trunks and dried hay, showcasing indigenous building techniques. This traditional architecture adds immensely to the village's heritage charm. A handful of houses, distinguished by their brightly painted windows and doors, contributed to the beauty and seemed to belong to well-off residents. Exploring the village's narrow lanes, interacting with local people and observing the village life with changing colours from dawn to dusk offers an incomparable experience.

While newer concrete structures for tourism are appearing fast at the village, the main village still largely preserves its traditional architecture and way of life, making Nako a truly authentic heritage destination.

A Fragile Treasure: Nako’s Endangered Buddhist Heritage

The village is also renowned for its ancient Nako Monastery, a complex of four Buddhist temples believed to date back to the 11th century, adorned with exquisite murals, frescoes, and sculptures. The World Monuments Fund has even identified the Nako Monastery as one of the 100 most endangered heritage sites, highlighting their historical significance.     

Founded in 1025 AD, Nako Monastery (Nako Gompa) is a masterpiece of early Tibetan Buddhist architecture. Unlike the towering white structures of later eras, Nako’s monastery is low-slung, earthy, and blends seamlessly with the village. The complex consists of four main halls. The Glaston Temple is the most significant, housing elaborate murals and life-sized icons. The structures are built using traditional Himalayan techniques—thick mud walls for insulation and intricate willow-work ceilings. The interiors are a treasure trove of "Chans" (vivid frescoes) and stucco statues that reflect the "Golden Era" of Western Himalayan art, heavily influenced by Kashmiri craftsmanship. In the spiritual hierarchy of the Himalayas, Nako is often whispered in the same breath as the world-renowned Tabo Monastery.

This 11^th century monastery has faced significant threats from severe weather, increased rainfall and damage from a 1975 earthquake, which caused the structure to become unstable. These temples were placed on World Monuments Fund’s list of 100 Most Endangered Sites in 2002. While in response to these threats, Nako Preservation Project was established in 2002 and undertaking restoration work, it is still recognized for its fragile nature.

The Spirit of the Climb: Finding Nako’s Hidden Monastery

After a relaxing day in Nako, next morning we decided for a short hike to a prayer wheel on a small hillock near the village. While walking under a cloudy sky we met two elderly women with prayer beads, sitting on a cliff, who told us about a small but beautiful monastery at the hilltop. Though initially hesitant, we soon encountered another elderly woman further ahead who not only convinced us to visit the hilltop monastery but also offered to guide us.

Impressed by her spirit and eagerness to show us the monastery uphill, we began what became my most challenging trek ever. The two-and-a-half-hour tough ascent over stone boulders through thorny bushes was strenuous and, at times, quite dangerous. The hour-and-a-half descent was similarly perilous. Yet, her constant encouragement made it achievable for us. 

Reaching the summit revealed the Yangon Chhosjee Gonpa, a small but beautiful monastery with striking idols, ancient and exquisite paintings, and a magnificent panorama of the valley, including the picturesque Nako village.

 During our journey, we also stumbled upon abandoned gharat (traditional water flour mills), once powered by hill streams and used by locals to mill wheat and millet. We also got opportunity to interact locals on the way.

In short, despite being an unexpectedly difficult and dangerous trek, the experience was truly memorable. It reaffirmed the idea ..... Difficult journeys truly do lead to the most beautiful destinations.

From Arid Peaks to Green Horizons: The Path to Kinnaur

Standing at the summit of Yangon Chhosjee overlooking Nako, the memories of Lahaul and Spiti surged back like a flood. This expedition was never just a trek across high-altitude deserts, serine monasteries and temples and ancient ruins; it was a profound lesson in resilience. We discovered that the most grueling climbs often grant the clearest perspectives, and that the Himalayan silence carries an echo that follows you long after the descent.  Now, we turn toward the green horizons of Kinnaur for our final chapter: a week-long immersion in the lush embrace of the Kinnaur Valley before the long road home.  

Do join us for the next chapter.

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