Unveiling the Mystery : A Pilgrimage through Yogini Temples across India

Unveiling the Mystery : A Pilgrimage through Yogini Temples across India

India is a land of diverse cultures and religious faiths and since ancient times temples and other religious   structures have played crucial role in preserving and promoting Indian cultural heritage. Historically, temples in India served as centers of worship, spiritual practice, and community gatherings. From time to time the temples were patronised by kings, rulers, and wealthy individuals who sponsored their construction and supported the temple communities and hence have been influenced by the prevailing social and religious environment. Accordingly, coinciding with the zenith of tantric practices in India during 9th to 12th centuries, construction of Yogini temples flourished primarily between the 9th and 10th centuries. This period witnessed a profound exploration of the feminine divine and the Yogini temples became sacred spaces for tantric rituals and spiritual seekers.

The Yoginis, Embodiments of Divine Power :

The Chausathi Yogini temples, literally translating to "Sixty-Four (64) Yogini Temple," hold a unique and captivating place in India's spiritual landscape. Though the exact purpose of these temples is not clear and remains a mystery, it is believed that these temple, dedicated to the yoginis, the fierce and powerful female figures associated with Tantra, served as centers for tantric initiation, worship, and spiritual transformation. As per religious beliefs the Yoginis are revered as powerful manifestations of the Goddess, often equated with Parvati. They represent the cosmic energies, the creative and destructive forces of nature, and the boundless potential of the human spirit. The yoginis represent various aspects of Shakti, the feminine divine energy. While some portray them as fearsome, others radiate serenity, reminding us of the duality that exists within us all. Going by the mythological legend, Goddess Durga took the form of 64 demigoddesses to defeat the demons. After the fight these demigoddesses known as Yoginis requested Goddess Durga to commemorate them in the form of a temple structure, and hence the Chausathi Yogini Temple. 

Chausathi Yogini temples : The unique architectural marvel

The significance of Chausathi Yogini temples goes beyond their religious purpose. These temples are also architecturally unique. Unlike most Hindu temples, which are built on a square or rectangular plan, the Yogini shrines are typically circular enclosures. They are also hypaethral, meaning they are open to the sky. This is thought to symbolize the connection between the yoginis and the cosmos. At the same time, the iconography of the yogini statues in these temples is not uniform, and the yoginis themselves are not the same in each set of 64. It is also interesting to note that the numbers of yogini statues are more than 64 at some temple structure. Irrespective of the number of statues, while some yoginis are depicted in peaceful postures, others are shown in more aggressive poses. These diversities are thought to reflect the many aspects of the divine feminine.

Surviving through the test of time:

Unfortunately these interesting temples have suffered from neglect, most probably due to the declining influence of tantric culture in the society, vandalism by Islamic invaders, and the ravages of time and in the process majority of them have faded away with time. However, increasing scholarly interest and recent conservation efforts are bringing those few hidden gems which have survived the test of time back into the spotlight. Such temples were very few in numbers and are concentrated in parts of Madhya Pradesh and Odisha. Presently there are five major Chausathi Yogini temples in India out of which four are surviving temples located at Hirapur and Ranipur-Jharial in Odisha and Bhedaghat and Mitaoli in Madhya Pradesh. The fifth one at Khajuraho in Madhya Pradesh is almost like ruins and thereby completely overshadowed by the famous Khajuraho groups of Temples.

A journey through the Yogini Temples:

I feel myself lucky to have visited to 4 out of these 5 impressive ancient temples, namely temples at Hirapur & Ranipur-Jharial in Odisha and Bhedaghat & Khajuraho in Madhya Pradesh….and let me take you through these mystic architectural marvels.    

Odisha: Unveiling the Origin

Our pilgrimage begins in Odisha, a land rich in ancient traditions. Here, two magnificent Chausathi Yogini temples stand as testaments to a bygone era. Let us start our journey with the smallest and supposedly the earliest of the Chausathi Yogini temples at Hirapur near Bhubaneswar.

Hirapur Chausathi Yogini Temple

Hirapur: A short drive from Bhubaneswar, almost at the outskirt of the capital city of Odisha, lies the Hirapur Chausathi Yogini Temple, believed to be the oldest of the Chausathi Yogini temples in India. Dating back to the 9th century, it's the smallest but the well-preserved one of the lot. Encircled by a laterite wall, 64 yoginis sandstone idols stand guard, each with a distinct expression and posture, captivating your imagination. The circular pedestal housing the yogini idols is reached through a protruding entrance guarded by dwarapala statues. The central chamber enshrines an image of Bhairava, adding to the temple's mystique. The yogini idols, though desecrated to a large extent, are depicting standing goddesses with their animal vahanas. They surround the main image of Goddess Kali at the centre.

Picture of Hirapur chausathi Yogini Temple

Planning Your Trip : The temple is accessible year-round, though the humid summer months are best avoided. Easily reached from Bhubaneswar by hired transport, the city itself is a major transportation hub with excellent air, rail, and road connections to the rest of India. With a wide range of accommodation options available, Bhubaneswar serves as a convenient base for exploring Odisha's many attractions.     

Chausathi Yogini Temple and

other ancient 9th-10th century temples at Ranipur-Jharial

Ranipur-Jharial: Seated atop barren stone hillock this temple complex offers a more open-air experience. Dating back to the 9th centuries, it boasts a larger layout compared to Hirapur. Carved from laterite, the yogini figures here are slightly larger than their Hirapur counterparts. Number of yogini idols are animal headed, some even holding human corpuse, suggestive of shava sadhana (corpse rituals) of the Yogini or Tantric Cult. The idols, like the temple wall, are made of low quality coarse sandstone. Sadly, time has taken its toll, but the 62 surviving yoginis and the central shrine dedicated to Shiva as Nateshwar, the Lord of Dance, create a powerful aura. It is worth to breathe in the serenity of this less-frequented site and appreciate the intricate carvings.

Picture of Ranipur-Jharial Chausathi Yogini Temple

Going down to the foothill is located another 9th century temple dedicated to Lord Shiva worshipped as Lord Somnath. This temple is surrounded by few other temples. This beautiful temple is one of the oldest temples in Odisha.

Picture of Somnath Temple

About a kilometer away from this site stands another ancient 10th century temple, the Indralath Temple. This is the only surviving and the tallest brick temple in Odisha. From the architecture and outer wall decorations indicates its cult affinity to both Saivite and Vaisnavite beliefs. The presence of Buddha statue in the temples also indicates to Buddhist connection of the temple. As legends go, Indra first worshipped Lord Shiva here and hence the name Indralath Temple. While the main temple standing intact, it appears that the Jagamohan part has been destroyed with time.  

Picture of Indralath Temple

Presence of so many ancient and unique temple complexes in addition to the Yogini temples on the vast spread of the rocky hilltop and adjacent area indicate that it was an important religious centre at that time. But being located at a remote area in western part of Odisha and without any infrastructural facility including transportation, these magnificent structures have remained out of the tourist map.

Planning Your Trip : While accessible year-round, the scorching summer heat makes it advisable to visit this remarkable temple complex outside these months. Situated in a secluded rural setting with limited amenities, the nearest railway hubs are Titilagarh Junction and Kantabanji. From there, visitors can hire transportation to the site. Both Titilagarh and Kantabanji offer reasonably comfortable lodging options.

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Beyond Odisha: Exploring the Diversity

While Odisha boasts the most prominent Chausathi Yogini temples, other regions in India offer their own interpretations:

Chausathi Yogini Temple at Khajuraho

Khajuraho, the world-famous UNESCO World Heritage Site, is renowned for its intricately carved temples dedicated to various Hindu and Jain deities and also for its erotic sculptures. Tucked away amidst the grandeur of Khajuraho groups of temples also lies the neglected remnants of the Chausathi Yogini temple away from the limelight. Being in the vicinity of such famous cousins, this 9th century temple complex, the oldest among all the temples in the Khajuraho region, has suffered the negligence and is now in ruins.  In contrast to the typical circular layout of Yogini temples, this complex though hypaethral by design is on a rectangular courtyard plan. Similarly, there is no trace of any central shrine as found in other Yogini temples. While hardly less than half of the shrines are still standing against time, the layout suggest that the 64 shrine cells for yogini idols were placed 10 on front side, 22 each on both sides and 11 on the back side. In addition, one bigger shrine is placed at the middle of backside facing the main entrance to the complex and probably was dedicated to Goddess Durga. The temple complex is placed on a high platform and made up of large coarse granite blocks. 

Picture of Khajuraho Chausathi Yogini Temple

Planning Your Trip : Khajuraho welcomes visitors year-round, though the intense summer heat is best avoided. As a UNESCO World Heritage site, the town offers a wide range of accommodation options. Enjoy easy access to Khajuraho by air, rail, or road, with an international airport serving the region.

The Yogini Temple at Bhedaghat

Seated on a hillock amidst the scenic marble cliffs of Bhedaghat on the banks of the Holy Narmada River near Jabalpur, this temple offers a breathtaking backdrop. This imposing temple, the biggest of all the Yogini complexes, is known for its intricate carvings and picturesque setting. Built-in the 10th-11th centuries, it features a circular courtyard with the yogini idols depicted in various postures, some holding weapons or musical instruments. The most contrasting feature of this temple is the 81 shrines for Yoginis in contrast to the usual 64. However, despite of this, the temple is catagorised as Chausathi Yogini Temple. Although almost all idols are desecrated and vandalized to a great extant mostly by the Islamic invaders, the divinity and intrinsic beauty still impress the visitors. Like other yogini temples, here also presence of few yogini idols seating on human corpuse or wearing garland of skulls or surrounded by ghostly figures is suggestive of shava sadhana (corpse rituals) of the Yogini or Tantric Cult. The central chamber enshrines a beautiful Shiva lingam makes this temple complex a blend of Shaiva and Tantric traditions.

Picture of Bhedaghat Chausathi Yogini Temple

Planning Your Trip : The temple is accessible year-round, though it's best avoided during the scorching summer months. Situated near Jabalpur in Madhya Pradesh, it's a short distance from the renowned Dhuandhar Falls and the stunning marble gorge of Bhedaghat on the Narmada River. Jabalpur boasts excellent connectivity by air, rail, and road to major Indian and international cities. The area around Bhedaghat offers a range of accommodation options, from comfortable hotels to resort-style stays.

 Conclusion :

A visit to the Chausathi Yogini temples is more than just sightseeing. The Chausathi Yogini temples are more than just architectural marvels; they are windows into a fascinating facet of Indian Tantra and esoteric traditions. So, embark on this unique pilgrimage, and let the Yoginis unveil their secrets to you!