Jiranga, the Little Tibet of Odisha: The Tibetan Diaspora-Part II

Jiranga, the Little Tibet of Odisha – Part II : Exploring Tibetan Life  at Settlement Camp No. 3 at Lobarsing

Continuing our journey through the vibrant tapestry of Tibetan settlements in Odisha (Jiranga, the Little Tibet of Odisha: The Tibetan Diaspora- Part I A Journey through Jiranga & Mahendragarh Tibetan Settlements (https://www.ghumnechalo.in/post/jiranga-the-little-tibet-of-odisha-the-tibetan-diaspora-part-i), we now turn our attention to the peaceful havens of Settlement Camp No. 3 at Lobarsing. Located between Mahendragarh and Jiranga, this settlement offers a glimpse into the rich cultural heritage and spiritual practices of the Tibetan community. In this post, we'll explore the serene monasteries and stupas that adorn these idyllic landscapes and understand the contributions of these humble guests to our Country. As promised, I'll also share some ideas to make your visit to this area memorable and satisfying.

· Duddul Raptenling Monastery : A historic Nyingmapa Institution

Located in Tibetan Settlement Camp No. 3 at Lobarsing is the Duddul Raptenling Monastery, a historic Nyingmapa institution.

Founded in 1961, it was established to preserve the Nyingmapa lineage and Buddha doctrine following the Chinese invasion of Tibet. Kyabje Dudjom Rinpoche, a renowned Buddhist teacher from Tibet, chose Odisha, one of the 24 sacred places, for the monastery's location. His decision was influenced by His Holiness the XIV Dalai Lama's request to establish monasteries to protect the Nyingmapa lineage of Buddhism. The original monastery housed the Choe Long Trul Sum, a set of three prayer statues representing Guru Padmasambhava and other deities. 

In 1969, construction began on the current two-story building under the guidance of Lama Dornam and Lama Sherpa. However, due to resource constraints, the project took over a decade to complete, deviating from the original design envisioned by Kyabje Dudjom Rinpoche. His Holiness the Dalai Lama consecrated and inaugurated the completed Duddul Raptenling Monastery on February 3, 1979.

Just behind the monastery, perched atop a small hill, stands the unassuming yet picturesque Dharchen Flag Post. It offers breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape, with Jiranga and Lobarsing visible on either side. The small stupas, vibrant prayer flags, and the sight of nuns replacing worn-out flags with the rising or setting Sun at the background create a mesmerizing atmosphere, especially at dawn and dusk.

· Namkha Khayung Monastery: A Beacon of Tibetan Buddhism

On the base of a small hillock adjacent to Tibetan Settlement Camp No. 3 at Lobarsing stands the beautiful Namkha Khayung monastery. The monastery's name, "Namkha Khayung," translates to "Sky Palace", symbolizing a place of spiritual elevation and enlightenment. This is the largest Buddhist Nunnery of Eastern India where Buddhist nuns from far off places like Ladakh, Sikkim, Arunachal Pradesh and even from Nepal come to learn spiritual teachings on Tibetan Buddhist philosophy and meditation techniques. 

The monastery's architecture is a beautiful blend of traditional Tibetan and modern styles. The monastery's most distinctive feature is its main altar, which is adorned with a Buddhist Stupa instead of a statue of Lord Buddha. The main prayer hall, adorned with intricate murals and statues, is a focal point for daily prayers and rituals. The surrounding grounds are meticulously landscaped, creating a serene and peaceful atmosphere. It's tranquil surroundings and the prayer chanting by Nuns provide an ideal setting for meditation, contemplation, and spiritual growth.

For visitors seeking a peaceful and spiritual retreat, Namkha Khayung Monastery offers a unique experience. Visitors can participate in daily prayers, attend meditation sessions, or simply enjoy the serene ambiance of the surroundings.

· Lama Dornan Rimpoche Memorial: A Tribute to a Spiritual Leader

Lama Dornan Rimpoche, a revered spiritual leader and a beacon of wisdom under whose supervision Duddul Raptenling Monastery was renovated, left an indelible mark on the hearts of countless individuals. His teachings, compassion, and unwavering dedication to the path of enlightenment inspired many. To honor his legacy and continue his work, a memorial has been established in near Tibetan Settlement Camp No. 3 at Lobarsing.

The Lama Dornan Rimpoche Memorial serves as a place of solace, reflection, and spiritual practice. It is a sanctuary where individuals can connect with the teachings of Lama Dornan Rimpoche and find inspiration in his life. The memorial offers a serene environment conducive to meditation, prayer, and contemplation. The traditional Buddhist Stupa, colorful flags adorned with mantras and prayers, lighted prayer lamps and humble offerings at the stupa creates an atmosphere of spiritual tranquility. Whether you are a devout Buddhist or simply seeking a peaceful retreat, the Lama Dornan Rimpoche Memorial offers a valuable opportunity for spiritual growth and inspiration.

· Oddyana Zangdogpalri Monastery : A New Spiritual Haven in Odisha

The Tibetan Settlement Camp No. 3 at Lobarsing village, renowned for Namkha Khayung and Dundul Raptenling Monasteries, is set to witness the establishment of a new spiritual landmark, the Oddyana Zangdogpalri Monastery. This under construction Monastery is an ambitious project that aims to create a serene and inspiring space for practitioners of Tibetan Buddhism. The monastery envisions fostering a community where individuals can deepen their understanding of Buddhist principles, engage in meditation practices, and connect with like-minded individuals. It will serve as a center for education, cultural exchange, and spiritual growth.

The centerpiece of the monastery will be a magnificent temple complex, designed to replicate the architectural styles of Tibetan monasteries. The grand temple structure will house magnificent sacred statues, intricately painted walls and artifacts. The under construction statues indicates that those will be most beautiful statues in the region once completed. A spacious meditation hall will provide a tranquil environment for practitioners to engage in various meditation techniques.

More than Just Migrants : Gratitude and Service of the Tibetan Community

The Tibetan settlers have made significant contributions to India, both culturally and strategically. They have enriched India's cultural heritage by introducing Tibetan Buddhist traditions and have also played a crucial role in safeguarding India's borders as members of the Special Frontier Force (SFF), a specialised outfit for high altitude warfare.

The Special Frontier Force (SFF) is a paramilitary special force of India created on 14 November 1962. It is primarily composed of Tibetan refugees and Gurkhas and specialised in high altitude mountain warfare. They have been involved in various operations, including the Sino-Indian War and the Kargil War. The SFF is a vital component of India's defense forces, and its role in safeguarding the country's borders is invaluable. During our stay, we came across many such Ex-SFF personnel and heard to their experiences.  

At a time when many countries across the globe grapple with turmoil caused by refugees and migrants, this community exemplifies the values of loyalty, gratitude and peaceful integration.

Travel Tips :

· Being well-connected to major towns like Berhampur, Rayagada, and Paralakhamundi, Jiranga is easily accessible by road. While bus services are available, hiring a taxi provides the most convenient option for exploring the region. Berhampur is the nearest major railhead.

· The best time to visit Jiranga is between October and March when the weather is pleasant and comfortable. However, it's worth noting that the climate has shifted in recent years, with summers becoming increasingly hot and humid in contrast to the pleasant weather whole year round in earlier days.

·  For accommodation and dining, options are very limited. The Ripa House, managed by the Padmasambhaba Mahavihara, is a better choice but lacks dining facilities. Hotel Budu International in Mahendragarh offers reasonably comfortable rooms and excellent food. If you prefer a more luxurious stay, the Taptapani Spring Resort is located 35 kilometers away. Very recently Home stay facility is coming up at Jiranga and Kunsang Ling Homestay is one such option at present.

· When it comes to food, options are very limited. The Ripa Food Court and Blissful Tea House serve authentic dishes like momos, thukpa, themthuk, tingmo, and aloo bhalle. Don't miss the opportunity to try the delicious laphings at Sonum Laphing near the Namkha Khayung monastery. For Indian food, Hotel Budu International at Mahendragarh and Jiranga Nature Nest Restaurant at Jiranga are excellent options.

· For souvenirs, explore the Ripa Canteen and Ripa Food Court at the Padmasambhaba Mahavihara and N K Mart at the Namkha Khayung monastery managed by the Nuns.

While most tourists visit Jiranga as day trips, spending 2-3 days here allows you to fully immerse yourself in the region's beauty, tranquility, and the warm hospitality of the Tibetan community. Engaging with locals provides a valuable opportunity to learn about their traditions, culture and way of life.

Tips for a Memorable Experience:

• Be Patient: Jiranga is a relatively remote area, so be prepared for slower pace and limited facilities compared to larger cities.

• Interact with locals: Interact with the friendly Tibetan community and learn about their history, traditions, and way of life.

• Learn about Tibetan Buddhism: Attend prayers and rituals and immerse yourself in the serene atmosphere of the monastery. Appreciate the intricate details and symbolism of the monastery.

• Respect Local Customs: Be mindful of local customs and traditions. Dress modestly, especially when visiting religious sites.

• Show appreciation & be courteous: Express gratitude for the hospitality and kindness of the locals. A few simple greetings and phrases can go a long way in connecting with the locals.

Conclusion : Jiranga, a Symbol of Tibetan Resilience and Adaptation 

Our three-day visit to Jiranga provided a profound opportunity to connect with the resilient Tibetan community in Odisha. Witnessing their lives firsthand, we gained a deeper understanding of their journey, contributions and the challenges they've overcome.

Despite facing adversity, the Tibetan settlers in Odisha have demonstrated extraordinary resilience and adaptability. They have worked tirelessly to rebuild their lives, creating thriving communities and making significant contributions to the state's cultural and economic fabric. Committed to preserving their rich cultural heritage, the Tibetan community has established schools, monasteries and cultural centers to pass down their traditions to future generations. Despite cultural differences, the Tibetan settlers have successfully integrated into the local community, enriching its diversity.

Jiranga is a true testament to the indomitable spirit of the Tibetan community, justifying it as the Little Tibet of Odisha.

For a video presentation on Jiranga, please check YouTube post  “Jiranga l Mini Tibet of Odisha l Complete guide  https://youtu.be/De_wIOQGDe0?si=oHLJr7k6LxEtE0Fh “ at PlacesDishes hosted by my co-traveler.

For posts on other interesting destinations, please visit my site www.ghumnechalo.in