My Trans-Himalayan Odyssey - Lahaul, Spiti & Kinnaur : Part 3 - Keylong, Shashur Monastery, Gondhla Fort, Trilokinath & Mrikula Mata Temples
- ashokkdas1958
- Apr 24
- 8 min read
The Beating Hearts of Lahaul: Exploring Keylong, Shashur Monastery, Gondhla Fort, Trilokinath & Mrikula Mata Temples
“This post continues the story from my previous entry in the My Himalayan Odyssey series, which you can read at www.ghumnechalo.in”
The Lahaul Interlude: Finding Stillness in the Heart of the Himalayas
Leaving behind the frozen heights of Baralacha La and Shinku La—and the spiritual silhouette of Gonbo Rangjon and the tranquil riverside evenings at Jispa —we descended into the milder reaches of Lower Lahaul. We chose Keylong as our sanctuary for the next few days, driven by three clear goals: exploration of the valley’s ancient soul, recuperation from the high-altitude toll, and strategic planning as we waited for the gates to Spiti Valley to open.
Keylong : The Beating Heart of Lahaul
Driving down the Manali-Leh Highway, we reached Keylong, the District Headquarter of Lahaul and Spiti district. It is a bustling town perched at an elevation of about 10,950 feet hanging over the Bhaga River. Beyond its administrative role, Keylong retains a charming, laid-back atmosphere and feels more like a serene mountain sanctuary. Travelling from Manali towards Leh, Keylong is where the lush greenery of the Lower Lahaul Valley finally gives way to the rugged, chocolate-colored peaks of the high Himalayas. It’s a land of prayer flags with the Bhaga River snaking through the valley floor. It offers stunning views of the surrounding mountains and is a great base to explore nearby attractions, including ancient monasteries, much revered temples and historic landmarks. Often overlooked as just a pitstop on the way to Leh, Keylong is the kind of place that rewards the traveler who decides to unpack their bags instead of just refueling their tank. It also serves as a perfect base camp to acclimatize before hitting the high-altitude passes.
After settling into our hillside hotel, we mapped out our itinerary. We decided to kick things off that afternoon with a visit to the Shashur Monastery - a place of incredible serenity. Reaching it was an adventure in itself: a 6-kilometer climb up an incredibly steep, narrow, and dusty trail leading away from the town.
Shashur Monastery: The Blue Pine Sanctuary
Perched on a hill overlooking the town of Keylong, Shashur is more than just a place of worship—it’s a quiet sentinel of the Himalayas. In the local dialect of Lahaul, Shashur translates to "among the blue pines." It’s a fitting name for a monastery that appears suddenly through a thicket of pine trees as you reach the top winding up the steep climb. Built in the 17th century by Lama Deva Gyatsho, a missionary from Bhutan, the monastery belongs to the Drugpa (Red Hat) sect of Tibetan Buddhism.
The monastery houses an incredible 15-foot Thangka (a Buddhist scroll painting), which is one of the largest in the region. As explained by one monk of the monastery, the wall murals depict the 84 Mahasiddhas (spiritually perfected individuals) of Buddhism with startlingly vivid colors that have survived centuries of Himalayan winters. Going by the local legends, when the founder, Deva Gyatsho, was cremated, his heart remained unburnt. It is believed to be preserved inside a black statue of the Lama within the monastery.
Between June-July the monastery hosts the famous Tsechu Festival, where monks perform the Cham - a ritualistic masked dance. Clad in vibrant silk robes and fierce animal masks, the lamas dance to the sound of long horns and cymbals to ward off evil spirits and bring prosperity to the valley. This festival is referred to as the “Guru Trungkar” or Guru Padmasambhava’s birthday, frequently takes place around the 10th day of 5th Tibetan month.
While many travelers rush through Lahaul on their way to Leh or Spiti, those who stop at Shashur find a rare kind of stillness. Unlike the more famous fortress like monasteries, Shashur feels intimate and lived-in.
Mornings in the Valley, Afternoons in the Market
As the sun dipped behind the peaks across the Bhaga River, we gathered in the gathering dark to rethink our strategy. With the opening of the road to Chandra Tal still uncertain, we chose to embrace a slower rhythm. Our new plan: explore the valley’s spiritual and historical heritage in the crisp pre-lunch hours, then spend our afternoons lounging on the hotel rooftop overlooking the river or wandering through the local market to connect with the local people.
Following our new plan, we set our sights on the revered temples of Triloknatha and Udaipur in the Chandra Bhaga Valley for the next morning. The following day, we aimed to visit the ancient Gondhla Fort and the iconic confluence where the Chandra and Bhaga rivers meet. While the mountain roads to these sites are winding—with some steep climbs and descents—they are largely paved and in excellent condition, barring a few short, unpaved stretches leading directly to Triloknatha and Gondhla.
Trilokinath Temple: The Confluence of Two Faiths
Triloknatha and Udaipur are located in the Chandra Bhaga Valley (also known as the Pattan Valley or lower Chenab Valley) in the western part of Lahaul Valley. Both places are situated on opposite banks of the Chandra Bhaga River (also known as Chenab River), with Udaipur on the right bank and Triloknath on the left. After a drive of 43 kms from Keylong, we turned left. Driving on unpaved dusty road for approximately 6 km and on the way crossing over to left bank of Chandra Bhaga River at Chandra Bhaga bridge, we reached Triloknath Temple.
Located on edge of the cliff at an altitude of roughly 9,055 feet hanging over Chandra Bhaga River the Trilokinath Temple is more than just a place of worship—it is a profound symbol of harmony which holds a distinction few places on Earth can claim: it is sacred to both Hindus and Buddhists. Dedicated to Lord Shiva (as Trilokinath) and Avalokiteshvara (by Buddhists), this ancient stone temple showcases an incredible blend of architectural styles and religious harmony. Its remote location adds to its mystique, making it a powerful spiritual experience. Legend attributes the temple's origins to the Pandavas, while historical records link its current form to the 10th century. Whether you are a trekker seeking stunning vistas or a pilgrim seeking inner peace, this "Shiva-Lokeshvara" shrine offers a serenity that lingers long after you’ve left the valley.
The Spiritual Gem of Udaipur: Mrikula Mata Temple
Back to the State Highway 26 from Trilokinath Temple and after a short drive westward, we reached Udaipur village renowned for the Holy Mrikula Mata Temple. Tucked away in the high-altitude wilderness of the Chandra Bhaga Valley, this temple is a place where history, myth, and masterful artistry collide. While the surrounding peaks of the Chandra Bhaga Valley command your attention, this humble-looking wooden structure holds treasures that are centuries old.
At first glance, the temple’s simple Lahauri-style architecture, with its sloping timber roof, seems humble—but step inside, and you are transported into a world of exquisite wood carvings. The temple dates back to the 11th or 12th century, and its interior is a labyrinth of intricate panels. The beautiful carvings of the wooden walls depict scenes from the Ramayana and Mahabharata. It’s a fascinating blend of Hindu and Buddhist iconography, reflecting the syncretic culture of the Lahaul region. The sanctum houses a striking silver idol of Mahishasuramardini (Mrikula Mata), cast in the Kashmiri style of the 16th century. Because the interior is quite dark to preserve the ancient wood, bringing a small torch (or use your phone) is more helpful to truly appreciate the depth of the carvings.
Local folklore adds a layer of mystery to the site. It is often said that the temple was constructed by the same master craftsman who built the famous Hidimba Devi Temple in Manali. Some even whisper that it was built in a single day by the Pandavas during their exile.
After a day of visiting sacred temples and exploring the local market, we turned in for the night, anxious about whether the roads to Chandra Taal and Spiti Valley would be open. The following morning, we set out on a brief excursion to the historic Gondhla Fort and witnessed the majestic confluence of the Chandra and Bhaga rivers.
Gondhla Fort: A Glimpse into the Glorious Past
Deep in the heart of the Lahaul Valley, where the Chandra River carves its way through the rugged Himalayas, stands a silent sentinel of history: The Gondhla Fort. Located about 18 km from Keylong after taking a diversion of around 2 km from Manali-Leh Highway came the village of Gondhla at an altitude of roughly 10,300 feet. On the edge of the village, this historic fort overlooks a dramatic landscape of terraced fields and snow-capped peaks.
This seven-story medieval tower, stands as a testament to Lahaul's rich history. Built in the 17th century by Raja Man Singh of Kullu, it served as the residence of the local Thakkur (chieftain). The fort offers panoramic views of the confluence of the Chandra and Bhaga rivers and provides a fascinating insight into the architectural prowess of bygone eras. Unlike the grand marble palaces of Rajasthan, Gondhla Fort (also known as the Gondhla Castle) is a masterpiece of Kath-Kuni architecture. This traditional style involves alternating layers of dry stone and wooden beams, a design that makes the structure remarkably resilient to the region’s frequent earthquakes.
Regrettably, this significant historical landmark has been largely overlooked, leading to a steady decline in its preservation and upkeep.
Chandra Bhaga Sangam: The Confluence of Life
On our way back from Gondhla, around 7 kms from Keylong, we stopped at the most significant geographical point in Lahaul - the Chandra Bhaga Sangam, where the Chandra and Bhaga rivers merge to form the mighty Chenab River.
The Chandra River originating from the glaciers near Chandra Taal and the Bhaga River starting its journey at the Suraj Taal meet at Tandi. They shed their individual names to become the Chandrabhaga, which eventually flows into Jammu and Kashmir as the mighty Chenab. To stand at the bank is to witness the literal "birth" of one of North India's most significant rivers. This confluence is not just a geographical event but also holds immense spiritual significance.
Local folklore adds a touch of romance to the geography. It is said that Chandra was the daughter of the Moon and Bhaga was the son of the Sun. They fell in love and decided to perform a Parikrama (circumambulation) of the mountains before finally uniting at Tandi to eternalize their bond.
The Tandi Bridge - A Gateway to Adventure : Close to this and standing over the Bhaga River is the Tandi Bridge, an essential lifeline for locals and those riding the Manali-Leh Highway. Crossing it offers a panoramic view of the swirling silt-rich waters below and the towering, snow-dusted peaks above.
Lahaul : An Unforgettable Journey Through the Himalayas
Lahaul is a destination that truly captivates the soul. From the dizzying heights of Baralacha Pass to the serene reflections in Deepak Tal, from the spiritual solace of Trilokinath Temple to the historical grandeur of Gondhla Fort, every corner of this land tells a story. Far from the bustling crowds, this Spiti Valley twin offers a tranquil escape for those seeking adventure and spiritual solace. It's a place where adventure meets tranquility, and where the raw beauty of nature leaves an indelible mark on your heart.
With the dust of Lahual still on our boots, we now turn our eyes toward the east, waiting for the snows to clear on the path to the moon lake, Chandra Tal.
Will the roads be open? Stay tuned.
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