My Trans-Himalayan Odyssey – Lahaul, Spiti & Kinnaur : Part 2 - Baralacha La, Shinku La, Gonbo Rangjon

Discovering the Icy Wonders of Lahaul & Spiti : Baralacha, Shinku La & Gonbo Rangjon

“This post continues the story from my previous entry in the My Himalayan Odyssey series, which you can read at www.ghumnechalo.in”

(https://www.ghumnechalo.in/post/my-trans-himalayan-odyssey-lahaul-spiti-kinnaur-part-1-manali-shuru-atal-tunnel)

Beyond the Atal Tunnel: Conquering the Frozen Frontiers of Upper Lahaul

Following up on my last post about our preparations for the rugged heights of Lahaul and Spiti, we finally crossed through the iconic Atal Tunnel. This landmark passage marks the beginning of the next chapter in our high-altitude Himalayan expedition.

As the tunnel lights faded in the rearview mirror and the vast, sun-drenched expanse of Lahaul opened before us, I realized that the "hard way" isn’t just about physical endurance—it is about the willingness to be transformed. We had left behind the lush comforts of the valley for the rugged, unfiltered beauty of the Trans-Himalayas, proving that when you answer the high-altitude call, the greatest reward isn't the destination itself, but the clarity you find in the thin, quiet air along the way.

Timing the Terrain : Our Route Logic and Basecamp

Emerging from the North Portal of the Atal Tunnel and crossing the Chandra River Bridge, we reached a major junction: to the right lay Spiti Valley, and to the left, Lahaul. Sticking to our plan, we moved toward the Lahaul region.

Now we faced a choice—start with the gentler Lower Lahaul or dive straight into the rugged, exhilarating Upper Lahaul. We opted for the latter. Our strategy was to conquer the high mountain passes and glacial lakes of Baralacha La and Shinku La first, then descend to Lower Lahaul for a brief recovery before tackling the grueling route to Chandra Tal. With that, we set our sights on the picturesque riverside village of Jispa as our primary base. Our decision was guided by two primary factors. First, the high-altitude passes had only recently opened, meaning we could enjoy the route without the typical tourist crowds and traffic congestion. Second, the road to Chandra Tal remained closed. We felt that if a delay was necessary, the milder climate of lower Lahaul would offer a far more comfortable waiting environment than the harsher conditions of the upper region.

Sissu: The Golden Gateway to Lahaul

A short drive beside the Chandra River brought us to the charming little village of Sissu. Until a few years ago, Sissu (also known as Khwaling) was a quiet pitstop on the arduous journey to Leh. Today, thanks to the engineering marvel of the Atal Tunnel, this village has transformed into a year-round Himalayan haven. Situated at an altitude of approximately 12,200 feet on the banks of Chandra River, Sissu is where the ruggedness of the high desert meets the charm of a mountain hamlet.

The "crown jewel" of the village is Sissu Waterfall (Palden Lhamo Dhar), a 50-meter-high waterfall cascading down a sheer cliff, reachable through a short, 15–20 minute rocky trek. Locals say that in peak winter, the waterfall often freezes into a giant ice sculpture, a sight that is nothing short of magical.

Another landmark of Sissu, the Raja Ghepan Temple stands as a profound symbol of faith for the people of Lahaul. Dedicated to the valley’s most revered protector deity, Raja Ghepan, the temple is more than just a place of worship; it is believed to be the spiritual throne from which he guards the region. Locals often recount the legend of the deity's power, as Raja Ghepan is traditionally viewed as a warrior-king who ensures the safety and prosperity of those traversing the treacherous mountain passes.

For the thrill-seekers, Sissu also offers Ziplining across the Chandra River for a bird’s-eye view of the valley.

Camping in Jispa: A Prelude to the Great Himalayan Climbs

Finally we reached Jispa, a picturesque village on the banks of the Bhaga River that serves as a popular overnight stop for those traveling to Leh.  The landscape here is characterized by lush green fields, traditional Lahauli homes, and the roaring Bhaga River. At an altitude of 10,500 feet, it’s an ideal place to unwind, breathe in the fresh mountain air, and witness the simplicity of mountain life. In recent years, Jispa has evolved into a premier camping hub, with a surge of permanent and seasonal sites established to accommodate the rising number of tourists.

As the sun went down over the snow-clad mountain tops and temperature dropped to near Zero, the bonfire lit up and people staying in our campsite started gathering. Enjoying the bonfire on a chilling night at the camping site beside a lively mountain river amidst prayer flags fluttering by the chilling wind descending from the snow capped mountain peaks and sharing laughter and stories and connecting with other travelers, who quickly felt like friends, made the evening truly special. The crackling fire, the gentle murmur of the stream, and the majestic peaks surrounding the campsite created a serene yet exhilarating atmosphere.  As the night deepened, our conversations turned to the adventures awaiting us in coming days: the formidable Baralacha Pass and Shinkula Pass at 17000 feets and the spiritual allure of Gonbo Rangjon. The excitement of those higher climbs filled us with anticipation for the journeys ahead.

The first sunrise at Jispa was an unforgettable spectacle. As the inky blackness of pre-dawn began to soften, the peaks surrounding the valley began to catch the light, their summits glowing with an ethereal brilliance. Then, as if a curtain was lifted, the sun itself emerged, painting the entire landscape in a warm, vibrant glow that chased away the last vestiges of night. It was a moment of profound peace and breathtaking beauty, a perfect welcome to the majestic Himalayas.

Glacial Rhythms and the Art of the Early Departure

Another important learning from my Ladakh tour - Traveling to the high altitude glacial passes involves crossing some of the most rugged and awe-inspiring terrain and many water crossings.  In the morning, these water crossings might look like a harmless stream. By the afternoon, as the sun melts the glaciers above, it transforms into a raging, boulder-tossing torrent. Therefore, experienced drivers aim to cross these spot as early as possible. If you arrive late in the day, you might find a "traffic jam" of bikes and SUVs waiting for the flow to subside.

The "Great Divide" at Darcha

Keeping that in mind, we started early in the morning for Baralacha Pass. Just after a short drive northward we reached Darcha that serves as the vital gateway. Situated on the Bhaga River in Lahaul, it serves as the final outpost before the arduous journey over high mountain passes. This is where the road splits—the legendary Manali-Leh highway continues straight taking you to Baralacha La, while a left turn takes you toward the rugged adventure of Zanskar  through Shinku La.

While much of the Manali-Leh Highway (NH-3) meets national highway standards with paved, wide lanes, it remains a "highway to the sky" that demands respect. Near the high passes and water crossings, the road often dissolves into narrow, slushy, and rugged tracks. It is widely considered one of the world’s most formidable routes, where travelers must contend with harsh weather, steep climbs, technical off-roading, and the constant risk of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS).

The Frozen Crown: A Journey Through Baralacha La

The journey to the snow-wrapped Baralacha Pass was an unforgettable odyssey through a landscape transformed by winter's icy embrace. Each turn offered breathtaking vistas of rugged mountain shrouded in pristine white and at intervals the free flowing Bhaga River. This is the route of iconic alpine lakes, sharp loops, famous water crossings. Our journey took us to Deepak Tal, a mirror-like lake, Zingzing Bar, one of the most eccentric "roadside stopovers" in the world, Pagala Nala, the notorious water crossing and just before the summit, Suraj Tal, third-highest lake in India. We moved ahead from Darcha and crossed the strategically important Darcha Bridge (also known as Barsi Bridge), the longest bridge on Manali-Leh Highway, over the Bhaga River.

Deepak Tal: The Gateway's Jewel

As we moved towards Baralacha, we encounter a small but stunning glacial lake Deepak Tal at an altitude of 12,300 feet. It serves as a vital psychological "reset" point for travelers, offering a calm and accessible spot to rest amidst the taxing climb. Deepak Tal is often called the "Mirror Lake" because its crystal-clear, emerald-green waters perfectly reflect the surrounding jagged peaks. It is a favorite among photographers and soul-seekers who find peace in its absolute stillness, standing in stark contrast to the roaring Bhaga River nearby.

Zing Zing Bar

Don’t let the name fool you—this isn't a cocktail lounge. At an altitude of 14,010 feet, it is one of the highest roadside camps in the world, a desolate yet essential stopover consisting of makeshift dhabas and BRO (Border Roads Organization) camps.  It serves as the final staging area before the steep climb to Baralacha La. It’s a place to grab a hot bowl of Maggi and mentally prepare for the thin air and icy winds.

Pagala Nala (The Mad Stream)

Then came the notorious Pagala Nala (The Mad Stream), the most dreaded water crossing on Manali-Leh Highway. True to its name, Pagala means "crazy," this water crossing is legendary among Himalayan travelers for its unpredictable nature.

Siraj Tal: The Lake of the Sun God

Tucked away amidst the rugged terrain just below the Baralacha La, Siraj Tal is a pristine high-altitude lake at above 16,000 feet that offers a moment of tranquility. It is the third-highest lake in India and remains partially frozen for much of the year. Despite it being May—peak summer for the lowlands—Suraj Tal  remained almost entirely frozen.  

Suraj Tal is also the source of the Bhaga river, making it a truly significant geographical point. Local folklore tells of two divine lovers—Chandra, the daughter of the Moon, and Bhaga, the son of the Sun god. They chose Baralacha La as the place to perform their eternal marriage before descending in opposite directions to meet again at Tandi.

Baralacha Pass: Where Worlds Collide

At a staggering altitude of 16,040 feet, Baralacha Pass is more than just a mountain pass; it's a spectacle of nature. The name Baralacha translates to "pass with crossroads on summit." Historically, it served as a vital junction where ancient trade routes from Ladakh, Spiti, Lahaul, and Zanskar met. The landscape here is stark yet mesmerizing, with snow-capped peaks surrounding a vast, desolate expanse. The excitement of driving through "snow walls" even in the summer month of May was unparallel. The pass is notorious for its icy winds and unpredictable weather, remaining snowbound and closed from November to May.

Despite a brief worry over low oxygen, our trip was overwhelmingly satisfying. We created cherished memories against a backdrop of unparalleled natural beauty, from my little companion (my granddaughter) playing in the abundant ice and icy glacial water to enjoying hot Maggie at roadside eateries.

Difficult Roads, Divine Destinations: Crossing the Shinku La Threshold

After experiencing the majestic Baralacha Pass, our next destination was the revered "God's Mountain," Gonbo Rangjon. It's accessible after traversing the impressive Shinkula Pass.

After a quick breakfast and with the thrill of the unknown in mind, we set off early to tackle the legendary route to Zanskar. At Darcha, we moved away from the paved comfort of the Manali-Leh Highway. While the path to Baralacha La offered smooth tarmac, the road to Shinku La was a different beast entirely. Here, the landscape is in constant motion; the road is frequently washed away by the volatile shifts of glaciers and avalanches, making every mile through the frozen passes a hard-won victory. The trail was a constant battle against nature, frequently carved through deep walls of ice and narrow, rugged spine of rock and miles of dusty road.

Shinku La: The Ice-Encased Gateway

Moving on to the road to Zanskar valley from Darcha, the last vestiges of green on the mountain slopes quickly disappeared, giving way to Ladakh's characteristic barren terrain. This stark landscape gradually transformed into the picturesque, ice-encased panorama of Shinkula Pass. Perched at an impressive altitude of approximately 16,703 feet, the Shinku La Pass serves as a vital high-altitude gateway connecting the Lahaul Valley in Himachal Pradesh to the Zanskar Valley in Ladakh. This rugged mountain pass is not just a geographical boundary but a feat of modern engineering. It is slated to host the world’s highest motorable tunnel to ensure all-weather connectivity once the under-construction Shinku La Tunnel is completed.

Mirror of the Trans-Himalayas: Shinkula Lake

Just below the summit lies the fully frozen Shinkula Lake, a high-altitude glacial lake otherwise famous for its crystal-clear, turquoise waters that create a stark, beautiful contrast against the surrounding barren, snow-capped peaks. For travelers and trekkers, the lake offers a moment of tranquil reflection amidst the thin air and harsh terrain, embodying the raw, untouched beauty of the Trans-Himalayas.

At the snow-covered summit, cloudy weather, biting icy wind, a delicate drizzle of snowflakes, and the frozen Shinkula Lake created an enchanting and magical atmosphere.

Gonbo Rangjon: The Holy Sentinel

Beyond the Shinku La pass, the valley opens up to reveal the most breathtaking landmark of the region: Gonbo Rangjon. This massive, standalone monolithic peak standing completely independent of the surrounding ranges is considered "God’s Mountain" by the local Zanskari Buddhists. Its name, "Gonbo Rangjon," signifies either "Gonbo's Throne" or "the embodiment of the protector," referring to Gonbo (Mahakala), a powerful Buddhist deity who guards against evil. The mountain's base stands at 14,800 feet, with its peak soaring to 18,110 feet. It's accessible after traversing the impressive Shinkula Pass. Gonbo Rangjon is never climbed out of respect for its sanctity. Camping at its base, near the Kurgiak Chu River, offers a spiritual silence that is hard to find anywhere else on Earth.

Compared to the journey to Baralacha Pass, the journey to Shinkula proved significantly more arduous. We navigated through areas with major landslides, washed-out roads, perilous water crossings, and narrow icy passages, all compounded by the onset of high-altitude sickness. Yet, as the saying goes, "Difficult roads often lead to beautiful destinations," a truth perfectly exemplified by the stunning vistas of Shinkula Top and Gonbo Rangjon.

The Earned Perspective

Our expedition through the high-altitude heart of Lahaul and Zanskar was a journey of extremes—from the engineering marvel of the Atal Tunnel to the ancient, untouched sanctity of Gonbo Rangjon. We faced the "crazy" streams and the narrow ice walls, finding that the most rewarding views are always earned, never given. As we pack our bags and prepare for the next chapter of our Himalayan odyssey, we carry the stillness of the Trans-Himalayas in our hearts, forever changed by the magic found at 17,000 feet.

With these memories etched in our minds, we concluded our tour of Upper Lahaul and began our descent toward the gentler landscapes of Lower Lahaul. Stay tuned!

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