My Trans-Himalayan Odyssey – Lahaul, Spiti & Kinnaur : Part 1 – Manali, Shuru, Atal Tunnel

The Ultimate Guide to Lahaul & Spiti: Starting Our Journey via Manali, Shuru and Atal Tunnel

Untamed Altitudes: The Allure of the High Mountains

The High Mountains, where the air gets thin and the world grows quiet, has it’s special magical charm. For some, the high mountains are a backdrop for a photo; for others, they are a sanctuary where the soul finally has room to breathe. Stepping away from the curated paths of mainstream tourism isn't just about a change in scenery—it’s about a change in perspective. If you’ve ever considered trading your luxury resort for a remote trail, here is why the "hard way" is often the most beautiful.

The allure of the high mountains lies in their contradiction. They are raw and untamed, presenting us with the physical challenges of unpredictable weather and oxygen-deprived air. Yet, in the middle of that harshness, there is a profound sense of serenity. When you are surrounded by peaks that have stood for eons, the noise of modern life fades away. This isn't just sightseeing; it’s an immersion into the Earth's most authentic state. The true reward of the high mountains isn't found in a gift shop. The mountains leave an indelible mark on your heart, offering a sense of perspective and inner strength that lingers long after you’ve returned to sea level.

High Passes and Hard Lessons: Learning from Ladakh trip

My month-long journey through Ladakh last summer (2024) remains one of my most cherished memories, defined by a striking balance of wonder and grit. On one hand, the trip was a dreamscape of adrenaline-pumping high passes, tranquil high-altitude lakes, and the quiet grace of ancient monasteries, all made warmer by the genuine hospitality of the Ladakhi people. On the other, the experience was grounded by the raw realities of mountain travel—unexpected disruptions and the physical toll of altitude sickness—which added a layer of anxiety to the adventure. Yet, it was precisely this blend of awe and hardship that made the trip so unforgettable. For those who love the wild, the difficulties are a small price to pay for the "siren song" of the mountains, which continues to promise a level of serenity and breathtaking beauty that is simply irresistible.

(Explore my Ladakh travelogues and discover more offbeat destinations at www.ghumnechalo.in.)

Returning to the Himalayas : Answering the Call with same obsession

Driven by the irresistible call of the high peaks, I once again packed my bags for a 25-day Himalayan expedition—this time through the rugged terrains of Lahaul, Spiti, and Kinnaur. Setting out in early May 2025, the journey was shrouded in uncertainty; many critical high-altitude routes, including the Baralacha and Shinku La passes and the track to Chandra Tal, were still partially closed by winter's grip. Yet, I moved forward, guided by the old mountain wisdom that difficult roads often lead to the most beautiful destinations.

Reflecting on my time in Ladakh, I’ve found that successful high-altitude travel boils down to a few golden rules: prioritize acclimatization at lower elevations, follow the 'climb high, sleep low' mantra, and maintain a slow, steady pace to avoid overexertion. To truly capture the region's serenity away from the peak-season crowds and traffic, consider traveling just before the rush—though you should be prepared for the possibility of some high-pass roads not fully functional.

Navigating Spirits, Not Just Roads

My time in Ladakh left me with one more invaluable insight. On high-altitude tours where difficult terrain and thin air can dampen spirits, a friendly driver is truly the ultimate asset. Beyond their technical expertise, their ability to remain cheerful serves as a crucial morale booster for weary passengers. By maintaining a positive atmosphere and offering a steady, reassuring presence, they transform a grueling drive into a comfortable and engaging experience. Ultimately, while a driver’s hands navigate the road, their personality navigates the group’s well-being, making them indispensable to any long-haul journey.

We were incredibly fortunate to have Rajinder Rana and Satish with us—two friendly, cooperative, and upbeat individuals who didn't just drive us through the month long journey, but made every mile feel like a moment of genuine connection.

Getting ready for Lahaul & Spiti : Finding Stillness in Shuru Before the Climb   

There are two primary routes into Spiti Valley: one via Shimla and the other through Manali – and we chose the Manali approach, entering through Lahaul Valley. We intentionally timed our trip for early May to experience the high passes and alpine lakes before the peak season crowds arrived, although we knew some roads might still be restricted. To start with, we chose Shuru—a quiet spot near Manali—perfect for settling in and acclimatizing to the altitude. Beyond just acclimating to the high altitude, our three-day stay in Shuru allowed us to dive into the bustling heart of Himachal in Manali and explore the quiet, off-beat charm of Sethan village in the Hamta Valley.

Shuru village : The Quiet Prelude to the High Passes

Nestled on the serene left bank of the Beas River, Shuru village serves as a tranquil sanctuary for travelers preparing to face the rugged heights of Lahaul and Spiti. Away from the tourist-heavy bustle of main Manali, this picturesque hamlet is characterized by its traditional Himachali architecture, lush apple orchards, and the sacred presence of the ancient Sharvari Devi Temple. Its moderate elevation and peaceful atmosphere make it an ideal base for acclimatization, allowing the body to adjust through gentle walks to the Sharvari Devi Temple on the higher ridge or along the pine-scented trails of the Jagatsukh valley. In Shuru, the "climb high, sleep low" rule feels less like a chore and more like a scenic invitation, offering a slow-paced introduction to the majesty of the Himalayas before the real adventure begins.   

Sharvari Devi Temple : Visiting an ancient, revered site is always rewarding, especially when reached via a challenging climb. My two-kilometer trek through Shuru Village to Mata Sharvari Temple—the Kuldevi of the Kullu royals—wound through traditional hamlets and fragrant rose gardens. At the upper ridge of the village, nestled among tall deodars, sits a beautifully carved wooden temple dedicated to a manifestation of Goddess Durga. The site offers breathtaking views of Manali and carries deep mythological roots; legend says Lord Shiva and Maa Parvati once appeared here to test Arjun’s devotion. For those seeking more, a steeper climb leads to the cave, the Arjun Cave, where Arjun meditated to appease the Lord.

To add to the tranquility, an early morning trek through the sleepy village of Shuru at near Zero temperature is truly a sensory masterpiece. The path wound through apple orchards, wheat patches, and wild cannabis, framed by charming local architecture. As sunlight hit the icy peaks at distance, the scene came alive with curling chimney smoke, the murmur of a nearby stream, and the gentle movement of sheep and ponies—a perfectly harmonious awakening.

Manali  : The Heart of Himachal

Manali is a mosaic of ancient mythology, bohemian culture and breathtaking Himalayan vistas. Whether you are looking for spiritual solace or a vibrant street-side experience, you should not miss the iconic spots that define the heart of this hill station.

Hidimba Devi Temple - The Wooden Marvel : Built in 1553 CE by Maharaja Bahadur Singh, this temple is an architectural masterpiece dedicated to Hidimba Devi, a character from the epic Mahabharata. Unlike traditional stone temples, it features a four-tiered pagoda-style roof made of timber and brass. It is nestled inside the Dhungri Van Vihar, a dense forest of towering Cedar (Deodar) trees. Inside, there is no sculpted idol; instead, the temple is built over a massive natural rock believed to be the manifestation of the Goddess.

A Warrior Under the Canopy - The Shrine of Ghatotkach : In the shadows of the main temple

is a fascinating spot—there’s something uniquely powerful about the fact that while the grand, wooden Hadimba Devi Temple gets the crowds, her son Ghatotkach, the legendary warrior son of Bheem and Hidimba Devi, is honored just a few meters away in a much more primal, open-air setting. The "open-air" nature of his shrines is very intentional. As a figure associated with the forest and the Rakshasa lineage, he is often worshipped under the canopy of ancient Deodar trees rather than inside a cramped stone structure.

Old Manali - The Bohemian Soul : Separated from the main town by the Manalsu River, Old Manali feels like a different world altogether. It is the preferred haunt for backpackers and those seeking a slower pace. Known for its "hippie" charm, the narrow winding lanes are lined with colorful graffiti, eccentric cafes, and guesthouses. You’ll find unique hand-knitted woolens, dream catchers, and silver jewelry here that differ from the more commercial Mall Road. Popular spots like , Café Indic Vibes or The Lazy Dog offer riverside seating and live music.

Manu Temple - The Origin Story : Located at the highest point of Old Manali, this temple is dedicated to Sage Manu, the legendary first man and lawgiver in Hindu mythology. It is the only temple in India dedicated to Sage Manu. In fact, the name "Manali" is derived from Manu-alaya (the abode of Manu). Reaching the temple requires a steep but rewarding walk through Old Manali Market, offering some of the best panoramic views of the Beas River and the valley below.

Vashisht Temple & Hot Springs - The Natural Spa : Just 3 km from the main town lies the village of Vashisht, famous for its ancient temple dedicated to the sage Vashisht, the guru of Lord Rama. The highlight is the natural sulfur springs. The water is believed to have medicinal properties that can cure skin diseases. There are separate, well-maintained bathing tanks for men and women. The temple is built in the traditional Kath Kuni style—an intricate Himalayan method of layering wood and stone without mortar.

Mall Road - The Bustling Heart : If Old Manali is the soul, Mall Road is the pulse of the town. This pedestrian-only zone is the central hub for every traveler. This is the best place to buy authentic Kullu Shawls, local handicrafts, and Tibetan rugs at the Tibetan Market. From steaming plates of momos and siddu (a local steamed bread) to high-end bakeries, the culinary variety here is endless. As the sun sets, the street comes alive with lights and crowds, making it the perfect place for people-watching and soaking in the mountain air.

Sethan, the Igloo Village : Gateway to the Hampta Pass

Perched at an altitude of approximately 8,850 feet, Sethan is a serene Buddhist hamlet tucked away in the Hampta Valley of Himachal Pradesh. While only about 12–15 km from the bustling streets of Manali, Sethan feels like a different dimension—quiet, culturally distinct, and largely untouched by commercial tourism. 

Unlike the pine-heavy slopes of Manali, Sethan offers a stark, high-altitude landscape with a front-row view of the Dhauladhar Range and the Beas River flowing far below. The village is inhabited by the Khampa tribe, a community of Buddhist farmers and shepherds who originally migrated from Spiti and Tibet. The vibe here is deeply spiritual and slow-paced, far removed from the "party" atmosphere of Old Manali. 

Sethan is often referred to as the "Igloo Village of India" because it pioneered the concept of snow-shelter stays in the country. From late December to early March, the village transforms into a white desert. Locals build functional igloos where travelers can spend the night. Sethan also serves as the starting point for the famous Hampta Pass Trek, which connects the lush Kullu Valley to the rugged, desert landscapes of Lahaul and Spiti.  

Transition into Lahaul : Crossing the Pir Panjal through the Atal Tunnel

Spending three wonderful days in the quietude of Shuru, we began our climb toward Lahaul, passing through the 9.02-kilometer long engineering marvel of the Atal Tunnel that carves through the Pir Panjal range of the Himalayas. Holding the record as the world’s longest single-tube highway tunnel above an altitude of 10,000 feet, this was inaugurated in 2020 and named after former Prime Minister Atal Bihari Vajpayee, and it serves as a critical lifeline connecting Manali to the Lahaul-Spiti Valley. By bypassing the treacherous and weather-dependent Rohtang Pass, the tunnel reduces the travel distance by roughly 46 km and saves commuters up to five hours of travel time. 

Stepping into the Atal Tunnel is like entering a portal between two different worlds. On the south side, the journey begins amidst the lush, cedar-scented air of the Kullu Valley, where emerald slopes and dense pine forests hug the road. But as you emerge from the 9.02 km engineering marvel at the North Portal, the scenery undergoes a dramatic, almost cinematic transformation. Gone are the soft greens of Manali; in their place stands the stark, sun-drenched grandeur of Lahaul Valley. The landscape shifts to a high-altitude desert palette of ochre and rust, defined by rugged, vertical cliffs and the turquoise ribbon of the Chandra River. This 15-minute transit through the heart of the Pir Panjal range doesn’t just save hours of travel—it serves as a breathtaking front-row seat to the raw, unfiltered transition from alpine paradise to the wild, windswept frontier of the Trans-Himalayas.

The Road Ahead: From Alpine Green to Trans-Himalayan Gold

As we emerge from the northern portal of the Atal Tunnel, the lush forests of Manali already feel like a distant memory, replaced by the stark, majestic silence of the Lahaul Valley. This transition marks the end of our "prelude" and the true beginning of a high-altitude odyssey. From here, the path stretches toward the windswept heights of Spiti and Kinnaur, where the air grows thinner and the landscapes become even more surreal. Ahead of us lie the treacherous beauty of the Baralacha La, the mystical Gonbo Rangjon, the God’s Mountain, the turquoise mystery of Chandra Tal, and the ancient, crumbling monasteries that guard the secrets of the mountains.

The "hard way" has only just begun, but with the lessons of Shuru in our hearts and the rugged peaks of the Trans-Himalayas in our sights, we move forward—ready to embrace the raw, untamed magic that only the highest reaches of the world can provide.

See you in the next episode of my journey.............