The Golden Temple: A Pilgrimage of the Heart and Immersive Journey into Sikhism

The Golden Temple: A Pilgrimage

Amritsar: More Than a Stopover, a Spiritual Awakening

My previous post about my Kartarpur Sahib pilgrimage mentioned Amritsar as the most convenient transit point. (A Day in Pakistan: My Kartarpur Sahib Yatra - A Dream Fulfilled, A Journey Remembered https://www.ghumnechalo.in/post/a-day-in-pakistan-my-kartarpur-sahib-yatra-a-dream-fulfilled-a-journey-remembered). While I had come to Amritsar twice before and visited the major tourist attractions including Golden Temple, this time it was different. A newfound curiosity drew me to delve deeper into the Golden Temple and Sikhism. I spent my time from 3.30 in the morning to late night in the Golden Temple Complex, witnessing and participating in rituals, learning about the complex's significant religious and historic sites, and engaging with pilgrims and granthis to understand both the Golden Temple and the Sikh community in a better way. It was no longer just sightseeing; it felt like a pilgrimage in itself. The parikrama's rhythmic chanting and devotional hum were deeply moving. The Harmandir Sahib's reflection in the Amrit Sarovar seemed to mirror my inner peace. Sharing langar with people from diverse backgrounds further exemplified the spirit of seva. This visit to Amritsar wasn't just a stop on a journey; it was an immersive experience, a moment of serenity, a reflection that resonated deeply within me. I'd like to share this experience with you.

The Golden Temple: Soul of Amritsar

Amritsar and the Golden Temple !!!  Amritsar, known as the Holy City, is virtually inseparable from the Golden Temple, Sikhism's most sacred shrine. The city's origins trace back to 1577 when Guru Ram Das, the fourth Sikh Guru, initiated the construction of a sacred pool, around which the city grew. At the heart of this pool, known as the Amrit Sarovar ("Pool of Nectar") for its believed healing properties, stands the Sri Harmandir Sahib, the central place of worship and pilgrimage for Sikhs worldwide. The city's name, Amritsar, reflects its deep connection to the temple and the sacred pool. This spiritual significance has defined Amritsar's identity throughout history, witnessing both periods of peace and resilience within the Sikh community. It's no wonder that the Golden Temple is the first image that springs to mind when one thinks of Amritsar.

A Day of Devotion at the Golden Temple: From Prakash to Sukhasan:

The Golden Temple, Amritsar, pulsates with a vibrant spiritual energy, a constant flow of devotion expressed through a rich tapestry of rituals performed from the first light of dawn until the quiet of night. I was fortunate, by the grace of God, to witness and even participate in several of these prominent daily ceremonies, each a unique expression of faith and tradition.

I awoke early and, after bathing, arrived at the Golden Temple around 3.30 AM. I had hoped to be among the first devotees there, but I was mistaken. Thousands of people were already there, braving the frigid temperatures to participate in the morning ceremonies. Although I wanted to take a holy bath in the Amrit Sarovar, the severe cold, with temperatures around 6 - 7 degrees, deterred me.

Unfortunately, I was late to witness the opening of the Harmandir Sahib's Kiwads (doors). By the time I entered the complex through the Ghanta Ghar, the morning ritual was complete. The doors usually open around 2:30 AM with hymns. “Asa di Var”, the special prayer service that takes place in the early morning was also underway. It involves the singing of hymns from the Guru Granth Sahib accompanied by musical instruments.

When I arrived, devotees were already gathering between the Darsan Deori and Aka Takth for the Palki Sahib ceremony. This important Sikh ritual happens twice daily. The Guru Granth Sahib, the Sikh Holy Scripture, is carried in a decorated palanquin from the Akal Takht to the Harmandir Sahib in the morning, and returned at night. The Guru Granth Sahib is deeply revered, considered a living Guru. This reverence is expressed through rituals mirroring daily human life: the scripture is ceremonially awakened each morning and respectfully put to rest each night.

I joined the crowd awaiting the morning Palki Sahib procession (also known as the Prakash), chanting hymns as the palanquin was prepared. At around 4:30 AM, the Akal Takht's doors opened, and priests brought out the Guru Granth Sahib and placed it within. The palanquin, accompanied by chanting and the showering of rose petals, was then carried in a procession to the Harmandir Sahib, creating a serene and spiritual atmosphere. The ritual ends with placing the Guru Granth Sahib at the holy seat of Harmandir Sahib also known as the Darbar Sahib.

After some time, the devotees' movement in the complex nearly ceased as the “Hukumnama” was read. They listened reverently to this randomly selected verse from the Guru Granth Sahib, recited by the Head Priest at Harmandir Sahib after the “Asa di Var”. The “Hukumnama” is considered the "order of the day" for Sikhs.

I joined the long but well-organized queue at the Darsani Deori, the entrance to Harmandir Sahib, to receive blessings and have a darshan of the Guru Granth Sahib. Although the wait was nearly an hour, the system was very efficient. Finally bowing before the Holy Scripture and receiving its blessings was a truly moving and enriching experience. 

The most delightful moment followed: savoring the Kada Prasad, also known as Guru Prasad. This divine offering, a velvety-smooth pudding crafted from atta (whole wheat flour) and ghee (clarified butter), was served just outside the Darsani Deori, its warmth and sweetness a comforting blessing.

After this sweet interlude, I continued my exploration along the Parikrama, the sacred walkway encircling the Amrit Sarovar, the holy pool. This path led me to other significant religious and historical sites, each with its own story to tell. I paused at the Dukh Bhanjani Beri, a jujube tree believed to alleviate suffering, and reflected on the history associated with Ber Baba Budha Sahib, a revered figure in Sikh tradition. The Lachhi Ber, another historic tree, and the Ramgarhia Bunga, a fortified enclosure reflecting Sikh martial history, further enriched my understanding of the complex's significance. Finally, I found respite in the cool shade of the courtyard, a tranquil space that offered a moment of quiet contemplation amidst the day's vibrant activity. The entire experience, from the blessed Prasad to the exploration of these sacred sites, was deeply fulfilling.

Among the most significant activities that continued throughout the day were the Langar (Community Kitchen) and Joda Ghar (Shoe House). The Langar and Joda Ghar operated almost continuously, providing free meals and shoe storage to all visitors regardless of caste, creed, or social status. These services exemplify selfless service and equality, core tenets of Sikhism. Throughout the day, devotees actively participate in various forms of seva (selfless service), including preparing and serving food in the Langar, cleaning dishes, organizing the Joda Ghar, and assisting visitors, etc. During the day, I enjoyed the Langar's blessed food, from morning tea and breakfast to the main meals. I also participated in Seva by helping serve food, cleaning the floors, and washing dishes. This was a truly fulfilling and serene experience.

Throughout the day, renowned Ragi Jathas performed Kirtan (devotional singing) inside the Harmandir Sahib, creating a serene and spiritual atmosphere. As evening approached, the Rehras Sahib, the evening prayer, was recited around 6:00 PM, followed by the Hukamnama.

The last ritual of the day " Sukh Asan " refers to the ceremony of respectfully retiring the Guru Granth Sahib for the night. The word “such” means “comfort” and “asan” means “position”. This involves carrying the Guru Granth Sahib in a procession from the Harmandir Sahib to the resting place at the Akal Takth. Sukhasan takes place every night. At around 10 PM. The Guru Granth Sahib was placed on the decorated palanquin. Priests and devotees, singing hymns, accompanied the palanquin in a procession. The Guru Granth Sahib was respectfully placed on a bed in the Akal Takth. Finally the Kiwad (doors) of the Akal Takth are closed for the night. Devotees do Kar Seva and clean the courtyard.

The Soul of the Golden Temple: Harmandir Sahib, Akal Takht, Darsani Deori, and Amrit Sarovar

Now let me brief about the four elements – the Harmandir Sahib, the Akal Takht, Darsani Deori, and Amrit Sarovar – together they form the heart of the Golden Temple complex. They represent the spiritual, temporal, and historical aspects of Sikhism and continue to inspire millions of devotees from around the world.

The Harmandir Sahib (The Golden Temple): The Harmandir Sahib, also known as the Darbar Sahib, is the central religious site of Sikhism. It was built by Guru Arjan Dev Ji, the fifth Sikh Guru, in the 16th century. The temple's construction was completed in 1604, and the Guru Granth Sahib, the holy scripture of Sikhism, was installed within it. The Harmandir Sahib is considered the most sacred place for Sikhs. It symbolizes the Sikh values of equality, humility, and openness, as it welcomes people of all castes, religions, and backgrounds. The temple's stunning golden structure (hence the name Golden Temple), intricate marble work, and serene atmosphere attract millions of visitors each year.

The Akal Takht: The Akal Takht, meaning "Throne of the Timeless One," is one of the five Takhts (seats of power) of the Sikh faith. It was established by Guru Hargobind Ji in 1606, opposite the Harmandir Sahib. The Akal Takht serves as a symbol of the temporal authority of the Sikhs and is a place where important decisions related to the Sikh community are made. The Akal Takht represents the combination of spiritual and worldly affairs in Sikhism. It is a reminder that Sikhs are not only expected to be spiritual but also to be involved in the social and political aspects of life. The Jathedar of the Akal Takht is the highest spokesperson of the Sikh community.

Darsani Deori: The Darsani Deori is the entrance gateway to the Harmandir Sahib. It is a beautifully decorated archway that leads to the main shrine. The deori is a symbol of humility, as visitors must descend steps to pass through it, signifying that one must be humble before entering the Guru's abode. The Darsani Deori serves as a threshold between the outer world and the sacred space of the Harmandir Sahib. It is a place where devotees pause to pay their respects before entering the temple.

Amrit Sarovar: The Amrit Sarovar, meaning "Pool of Nectar," is the sacred pool surrounding the Harmandir Sahib. It was excavated by Guru Ram Das Ji, the fourth Sikh Guru, in the 16th century. The pool is believed to have healing properties, and Sikhs consider it a sacred duty to take a dip in its holy waters. The Amrit Sarovar is an integral part of the Harmandir Sahib complex. It symbolizes the purity of mind and body and is a reminder of the importance of water in Sikh rituals. The reflection of the golden temple in the pool creates a mesmerizing sight.

Whispers of Faith: The Holy Beris of Amritsar

The Golden Temple complex isn't just a place of spiritual significance; it also houses some remarkably old and revered trees. These trees, known as "beris" (jujube trees), are considered sacred and have fascinating stories associated with them. These trees are not just old… some dating back centuries; they are living symbols of faith and history. They've stood witness to the evolution of Sikhism, the construction of the Golden Temple, and countless historical events that have shaped the Sikh faith. They are an integral part of the Golden Temple's spiritual landscape. The Punjab Agricultural University (PAU) also plays a role in taking care of these trees. Here are the main ones:

Dukh Bhanjani Beri: This is perhaps the most famous of the trees. It stands on the eastern side of the Amrit Sarovar. Legend has it that a leper husband of Bibi Rajani was cured after taking a dip in the pond near this tree. "Dukh Bhanjani" means "eradicator of suffering," and it's believed that bathing in the sarovar near this tree can alleviate ailments and troubles.

Ber Baba Budha Sahib: This tree is associated with Baba Budha Ji, a revered figure in Sikh history known for his wisdom and longevity. It's said to be over 450 years old, making it one of the oldest trees in the region.

Lachhi Ber: This is another ancient jujube tree near the Darsani Deori. While less known than the other two, it still holds significance for devotees.

The Langar: Embodiment of Sikh Values and Selfless Service

The Langar, the Sikh community kitchen, is a cornerstone of Sikh tradition and culture embodying the core values of selfless service, community, and sharing.  Open to all, irrespective of background or social standing, it represents the Sikh commitment to equality and provides a welcoming space for everyone.

At the Golden Temple, the Langar operates tirelessly around the clock, seven days a week, serving tens of thousands of simple, vegetarian, and nourishing meals to ensure that no one goes hungry. This extraordinary feat is accomplished entirely by dedicated volunteers, known as "sevadars," who generously devote their time and energy to every aspect of the Langar, from preparing and serving the food to maintaining cleanliness. Visitors to the Golden Temple, regardless of their religious background, are also encouraged to participate in this noble endeavor by volunteering their time as sevadars or contributing to the Langar fund.

This massive undertaking is a well-organized system. Key areas include roti (bread) making, dal (lentil) and vegetable preparation, rice cooking, serving, dishwashing, storage, and volunteer coordination. These interconnected sections function seamlessly, driven by seva (selfless service) and ensuring no one is left hungry.

Experiencing the Langar offers a powerful demonstration of community spirit and the Sikh value of sharing. While the Langar kitchen has adopted modern methods like gas cooking and automated roti machines to manage its growing needs, it also preserves traditional Punjabi culinary practices. Sevadars still make rotis by hand, and lentils are cooked over wood-fired chullhas, maintaining the authentic flavor and the spirit of the Sanjha Chullha.

A Warrior's Legacy: The Ramgarhia Bunga

At the southeastern edge of the Golden Temple complex, the Ramgarhia Bunga stands as a powerful reminder of Sikh valor and resilience. This pre-Ranjit Singh structure, erected in the late 18th century by the Sikh warrior and Ramgarhia chief, Jassa Singh Ramgarhia, arose in the aftermath of Ahmed Shah Abdali's devastating attack on the Golden Temple in 1762. Designed as a defensive stronghold, the Bunga provided crucial protection against future incursions. Its walls housed soldiers, and its strategic vantage points allowed sentinels to keep watch over the sacred complex.

The Bunga's architecture is a fascinating fusion of styles. The Mughal influence is evident in its minaret-like towers, while the overall design reflects the practicalities of Sikh military architecture. Within the complex lies another treasure: a 'Takht' (throne) carved from a single slab of granite. Believed to have been brought from Delhi's Red Fort after a Sikh victory, this throne symbolizes Sikh sovereignty and holds special significance for the Ramgarhia community.

More than just a historical landmark, the Ramgarhia Bunga is an integral part of the Golden Temple's story. It embodies the spirit of Sikh resilience, devotion, and military prowess. Its unique architecture and rich history make it an essential stop for anyone seeking to understand the depth and complexity of Sikh heritage.

A Deeper Look at Sikhism: An Outsider's Perspective

Hailing from Odisha, a state with a relatively small Sikh population, and having never lived in a city with a significant Sikh presence, I've nonetheless been deeply impressed by the Sikh community since my youth. While acknowledging India's diverse perspectives, I've observed that Sikhs are widely respected. My admiration stems from their commitment to serving humanity, their devotion and strong faith, their dedication to India, their belief in equality (rooted in the idea of shared divine origin), and their emphasis on hard work and honest living. This experience probably sparked a deep inner calling, an inexplicable desire to return to the Golden Temple and explore Sikhism more profoundly. This pilgrimage provided me with a richer understanding of the faith, which I'd like to share.

The Eternal Guru: The Story of the Guru Granth Sahib

A notable aspect of Shikhism is that they uniquely reveres its holy scripture, the Guru Granth Sahib, as the living Guru, rather than a human leader. The first Sikh Guru, Guru Nanak Dev's hymns formed the basis of what would become the Sikh scripture. Guru Arjan Dev compiled these, along with works from other Gurus and select writings from various saints, into the Adi Granth (the "first book"). This compilation was completed and installed in the Golden Temple in 1604, a pivotal moment for Sikhism. Guru Gobind Singh, the tenth Guru, finalized the Guru Granth Sahib by adding his father Guru Tegh Bahadur's hymns and declaring it the eternal Guru of Sikhism, thus ending the line of human Gurus. In 1708, he formally bestowed Guruship upon the Adi Granth, renaming it the Guru Granth Sahib and establishing it as the ultimate spiritual authority. The Guru Granth Sahib is more than just a scripture; it is a source of wisdom, a guide for living, and the eternal Guru for Sikhs. Its history is a testament to the enduring legacy of the Sikh Gurus and their teachings.

The Golden Temple's Spiritual Symphony

There are daily religious observances like Asa di Var, Kirtan, Ardaas, and Hukumnama which  combine to create a deeply spiritual and meaningful experience for those visiting or participating in the services at the Golden Temple, but they are distinct practices:

· Asa di Var: This is a collection of hymns from the Guru Granth Sahib, traditionally sung in the early morning. It's a form of prayer and meditation that praises God and reflects on the teachings of the Gurus.

· Kirtan: This is the singing of hymns from the Guru Granth Sahib, often accompanied by musical instruments. It's a central part of Sikh worship and is considered a way to connect with the divine.

· Ardaas: This is a Sikh prayer of supplication or thanksgiving. It's a formal prayer that is offered at the end of services or before undertaking any important task.

· Hukumnama: This is a random reading from the Guru Granth Sahib, which is considered to be the Guru's message for the day. It's often sought after for guidance and inspiration.

The Nishan Sahib: A Symbol of Sikh Faith and History

A prominent feature of every Gurdwara is the Nishan Sahib, a flag pole displaying a distinctive Sikh flag. This flag, the Nishan Sahib, is typically saffron or blue, each color carrying its own symbolism. Saffron, the more prevalent color, represents courage and sacrifice, core tenets of the Sikh faith. The blue Nishan Sahib, on the other hand, symbolizes spirituality and royalty. It is particularly associated with the Nihangs, a historically significant Sikh warrior order, and is a common sight at their Gurdwaras. Therefore, the Nishan Sahib serves not only as a marker for the Gurdwara but also as a visual reminder of the values and history of Sikhism.

The 5 Ks: Pillars of Sikh Identity

Guru Gobind Singh initiated the practice of wearing the "Five Ks" when he created the Khalsa order in 1699. The 5 Ks, five articles of faith worn by initiated Sikhs (Khalsa), are not mere accessories but integral components of their identity, representing deep spiritual significance and commitment to the Sikh way of life. These Five Ks are outward expressions of inner spiritual values and serve as constant reminders of the Sikh code of conduct. These are:

· Kesh (Uncut Hair): Represents acceptance of God's will and a commitment to a simple life. Hair is kept uncut as a symbol of spirituality and respect for God's creation.

· Kangha (Comb): Symbolizes cleanliness, both physical and spiritual. It reminds Sikhs to maintain order and discipline in their lives.

· Kara (Steel Bracelet): A symbol of strength, unity, and an unbreakable bond with God. It serves as a reminder to act with righteousness and integrity.

· Kachera (Special Undergarment): Represents self-control and chastity. It is a reminder to maintain moral purity.

· Kirpan (Dagger): Symbolizes the willingness to defend oneself and others from injustice. It represents courage and the commitment to uphold righteousness. It's not meant to be used aggressively, but defensively.

The Three Golden Rules of Sikhism: Naam Japna, Kirat Karni, Vand Chakna

Sikhism is built upon three core principles, often referred to as the "Three Pillars" or "Three Golden Rules" articulated by Guru Nanak Dev Ji, the first Guru:

· Naam Japna (Remembering God's Name): This emphasizes the continuous remembrance of God through meditation, prayer, and contemplation of His virtues. It's not just about repetition, but about internalizing and living those divine qualities.

· Kirat Karni (Earning an Honest Living): Sikhs are expected to earn their livelihood through hard work, honest means, and ethical conduct. This principle discourages exploitation, greed, and any form of dishonesty.

· Vand Chakna (Sharing with Others): This highlights the importance of sharing one's resources, wealth, and knowledge with those in need. It promotes selfless service, charity, and a sense of community responsibility.

These three principles are interconnected and form the foundation of a Sikh's way of life, guiding them towards spiritual growth, ethical living, and selfless service.

Conclusion :

My journey to Amritsar transcended a simple visit; it became a profound exploration of faith and community. From the pre-dawn rituals to the quiet reverence of the evening ceremonies, every moment at the Golden Temple resonated with a spiritual depth I hadn't anticipated. The stories whispered by the ancient beris, the strength embodied by the Ramgarhia Bunga, and the living example of the Guru Granth Sahib as the eternal Guru all contributed to a richer understanding of Sikhism. More than just witnessing traditions, I felt a connection to the values of selfless service, equality, and devotion that underpin this remarkable faith. Amritsar, in its vibrant tapestry of devotion and history, offered not just sights to see, but a spiritual awakening to carry within.

वाहेगुरु जी दा खालसा, वाहेगुरु जी दी फतेह ।

For similar posts on other interesting destinations, please visit my site www.ghumnechalo.in