Unveiling the Spiritual Gems of Ladakh: A Journey through Monasteries

LADAKH : THE LAND OF SPIRITUAL RETREAT

 

Unveiling the Spiritual Gems of Ladakh: A Journey through Monasteries

Ladakh, “the Land of High Passes”, is also a treasure trove of Buddhist monasteries. These gompas, as they are locally called, cling to cliffs, perch on mountain tops, and sprawl across vast landscapes. Each monastery boasts unique architecture, vibrant prayer flags, and a deep sense of peace. These monasteries have served as centers of learning, meditation, and cultural preservation for centuries, attracting pilgrims and travelers from all corners of the globe. Whether you're a spiritual seeker, a history buff or a travel enthusiast, Ladakh’s monasteries offer you an unforgettable experience. And hence any tour of Ladakh is incomplete without mention of these monasteries.  

A.  The Iconic Gompas:

During our journey, we were blessed to visit quite a few monasteries, some are the famous ones like Thiksey Monastery and Hemis Monastery on Leh-Manali Highway, Lamayuru Monastery on Kargil-Leh Highway, Diskit Monastery in Nubra Valley etc which appears invariably in every tour itinerary of Ladakh and are much frequently visited by tourists.

1. Thiksey Monastery:  

Standing little off the Leh-Manali highway comes the Thiksey Monastery atop a hill overlooking the panoramic Indus Valley.  Often called to as the "Mini Potala" due to its resemblance to Lhasa's iconic Potala Palace, Thiksey Monastery is one of the largest and most revered monasteries in Ladakh. This Gelukpa monastery is renowned for its architectural grandeur, housing numerous stupas, temples, and prayer halls. The highlight of Thiksey is its three-story 49 feet tall Maitreya Buddha statue, a symbol of the future Buddha who is believed to come and bring enlightenment to the world. The monastery houses two other magnificent temples, the Protector Temple and the Taradevi Temple. The roof-terrace of the gompa offers a stunning view of Stok Kangri peak and Stakna Gompa. 

2. Hemis Monastery: 

Located about 45 kilometers from Leh and nestled amidst the stark beauty of the Himalayas, Hemis Monastery is the largest Drukpa lineage gompa. Founded in 16th century by the first incarnation of Stagsang Raspa Nawang Gyatso this sacred site is home to the revered Hemis Tsechu festival, held annually in June or July. The festival features masked dances, intricate Thangka paintings, and the unveiling of the sacred Hemis mask, said to be a representation of Padmasambhava, the founder of Tibetan Buddhism.  While travelling from the Leh-Manali highway to the Monastery, first you will cross a small iron bridge over the Indus river fully covered with Buddhist prayer flags and then a ornate gateway welcoming you before almost 4 KMs. Halfway between the gate and the monastery you will see the magnificent Naropa Stupa (Naro Photang) standing at the mountain foothill.

3.  Lamayuru Monastery: 

Parched on a rocky cliff overlooking the picturesque Indus Valley at Lamayuru Village on Kargil-Leh main road descending from Fatu La pass stands the poster perfect Lamayuru Monastery.  Also known as “Red Monastery,” this is one of the oldest and most revered monasteries in Ladakh. Founded in the 10th century, this Gelukpa monastery is renowned for its captivating wall paintings and serene atmosphere.  The monastery’s collection of ancient Thangka paintings, depicting various Buddhist deities and mandalas, is considered one of the most significant in the region. The surrounding magnificent lunar-like landscape nicknamed “The Moonland” is another area of interest and attraction.

4.  Diskit Monastery:

Situated in the beautiful Nubra Valley, famous for the Hunder sand dunes and the double humped bactrian camels, Diskit Monastery is the oldest and largest monastery in the region. Founded in the 14th century, this Gelukpa monastery is renowned for its collection of ancient Thangka paintings, sacred texts, and Buddhist artifacts are of immense cultural and religious significance. To add more to our excitement is the colossal statue of Maitreya Buddha, the largest in Ladakh, standing tall on the hill opposite to the Gompa. This imposing statue of the future Buddha gazes benevolently over the confluence of the Shyok and Nubra rivers. Its vibrant golden hue, intricate details, and serene expression leave visitors awestruck.

B.  Beyond the Iconic Gompas:

While these monasteries are Ladakh's crown jewels, there are many more hidden gems waiting to be explored more. And through this write up, we also embark on a spiritual journey through some of Ladakh's most captivating lesser known monasteries which we came across during our tour, with a special focus on some hidden gems. Let us travel through these magnificent monasteries which somehow have remained overshadowed by the much famous cousins even though they are easily approachable.   

 

1. Mulbekh Monastery: The Bamyan Buddhas of Ladakh

About 45 KMs from Kargil-Leh NH-1 comes the Mulbekh Monastery, one of the rarest rock-cut statue of Buddha in Ladakh, which along with other rock-cut statues known as “Bamyan Buddhas of Ladakh”. Going by the information board placed at the site, this statue of Maitreya, The Future Buddha, was carved probably in 1st B.C. during Kushan period. However, as per other claims this is of 10th-century monastery and is believed to be one of Ladakh's oldest. Carved into a cliffside, Mulbekh offers a unique experience. Believed to have been a meditation retreat in its earlier days, the tranquility of the location persists, making it ideal for those seeking a truly spiritual experience. In the monastery there are few ancient edicts issued by the kings advising locals to abandon animal sacrifice.

2. Alchi Monastery: A Haven of Exquisite Wall Paintings

Taking a diversion from NH-1 near Saspol Village and travelling about 4.5 KMs crossing the Indus River bridge we reaches the Alchi Village amidst Apricot trees. Nestled on the banks of the Indus River, is the UNESCO World Heritage Site, Alchi Monastery is a complex of three temples dating back to the 11th and 12th centuries. Alchi Monastery stands out for its well-preserved 11th-century wall paintings. Unlike the typical Ladakhi gompas, Alchi boasts predominantly tempera-based murals depicting Buddhist themes in vibrant colors. These masterpieces showcase the influence of Kashmiri and Central Asian artistic styles, making Alchi a true gem for art enthusiasts. This unique monastery is known for its exquisite mud-brick architecture and its well-preserved wall paintings, considered masterpieces of Indo-Tibetan art. The paintings depict various Buddhist deities, Bodhisattvas, and scenes from the Buddha's life. Unlike other monasteries in Ladakh, which are build on hills, Alchi monastery is on a flat ground. The Indus river flowing majestically under the high cliff just beside the Alchi Gompa is definitely a feast for eyes. To me this is one place that should not be missed in any tour itinerary of Ladakh.

3. Likir Monastery: Commanding Views and Serene Atmosphere

After coming about 8-9 KMs from Saspol Village towards Leh, we took a turn towards left and driving 6 KMs more we reached the Likir Monastery, one of the oldest gompa of Ladakh. Perched atop a hill overlooking the Indus Valley, Likir Monastery offers breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding valley. Founded in the 11th century, it belongs to the Gelugpa order of Tibetan Buddhism. Inside, be captivated by the towering three-story Dukhang (assembly hall) housing a colossal statue of the Shakyamuni Buddha. The serene atmosphere and stunning backdrop make Likir a must-visit place for those seeking peace and tranquility.

4. Basgo Monastery: A Glimpse into the Past

Next on the route towards Leh between Likir and Nimoo came the Basgo Monastery, once a thriving center, now stands partially in ruins. This 16th-century monastery offers a glimpse into Ladakh's architectural heritage. There are three temples at Basgo Monastery namely Chamba Lhakhang, Chamba Chung and Chamba Serzang Temples. Exploring the crumbling structures is perfect for those seeking a more off-the-beaten-path experience. This monastery appears among UNESCO’s list of 100 most endangered heritage sites.

5. Phyang Monastery: Home to a Vibrant Festival and Ancient Masks

Located at the scenic Phyang Valley, 17 KMs from Leh and 6 KMs from the Kargil-Leh NH-1, is the beautiful 16th century Phyang Monastery. Inside the monastery, marvel at the collection of ancient masks, some dating back centuries. Phyang Monastery boasts a unique collection of thangkas (Tibetan scroll paintings), traditional musical instruments, ancient masks, some dating back to centuries, and a rich wonderful collection of Chinese, Tibetan & Mongolian fire arms and weapons. The monastery is also known for its serene ambiance and its annual festival, held in July or August. The festival features traditional dances, masked performances, and the reenactment of the Buddha's life.

6. Spituk Monastery: A Guardian of the Valley

Nearest to Leh and hardly 2-2.5 KMs from the Hall of Fame, Leh is the Spituk Monastery. It is strategically located on a hilltop and was built for defensive purposes as much as religious ones. This 11th century gompa offers stunning views of the Indus Valley and houses a collection of fierce guardian deity statues. Be sure to witness the impressive collection of weaponry and ancient thangkas housed within the monastery walls. The most intriguing part of the monastery is the presence of a giant statue of Goddess Kali, which remains covered throughout the year and is unveiled only during the Gustor festival celebrated on the 27th day of the 11th month of Tibetan calander.

7.  Namgyal Tsemo, Leh: The often forgotten one

Perched proudly atop a ridge overlooking Leh City is a Tibetan Buddhist monastery, the Namgyal Tsemo Gompa. But interestingly enough, this beautiful place very often is missed by visitors, mainly being overshadowed by its more famous neighbors, Leh Palace and Shanti Stupa. There are three ways to reach the Namgyal Tsemo Gompa, each offering a different experience, the best and comfortable one is to drive through the Old Leh city. The climb to Namgyal Tsemo Gompa may require some effort, but the rewards are truly unmatched. Founded by King Tashi Namgyal in the 15th century, the Namgyal Tsemo Gompa served as a watchtower and a place of worship. As you reach the monastery, the red building with its intricate carvings stands out against the vast blue sky. Inside is the grand golden Maitrya Buddha statue, the prayer flags fluttering in the breeze and the peaceful hum of chanting by monks fills the air with serenity. From the top, the entire city of Leh unfolds before you. The majestic Stok Kangri mountain range dominates the horizon, while the Indus River snakes its way through the valley below. It's a panorama that leaves you breathless.

8. Stakna Monastery: A Tiger's Nose Perched on the Indus

Stakna Monastery, also known as Stakna Gompa, is a Buddhist monastery perched on a dramatic hilltop overlooking the Indus River comes between Thiksey and Hemis Monasteries. Though the Leh-Manali main road is the easiest to reach this Monastery, the road from Leh through Chuchot Yakma, though a rugged one running on the opposite side of Indus River, is more scenic and gives the opportunity to experience off-roading and explore the beautiful villages of Chuchot Yakma and Chuchot Shama.

The name itself, Stakna, translates to "tiger's nose," referencing the hill's distinctive shape.  Founded in the late 16th century by a Bhutanese scholar named Chosje Modzin, Stakna Monastery is the only Bhutanese Drukpa Kagyu monastery in Ladakh.  Built in the Tibetan style, Stakna Monastery features an assembly hall (Dukhang) adorned with vibrant murals. The monastery's elevated position offers stunning panoramic views of the surrounding landscape, including the Indus River and the nearby Hemis Monastery.

9.  Shey Monastery : Beyond the Ruins

Shey Monastery, or Shey Gompa as it's also known, is a breathtaking Tibetan Buddhist monastery dating back to the 10th century. Nestled amidst the ruins of Shey Palace, the former summer capital of Ladakh, this serene retreat offers a profound spiritual experience.

The monastery's centerpiece is a towering copper statue of Shakyamuni Buddha, gilded with gold and a symbol of enlightenment and compassion. This majestic figure is one of the most venerated in Buddhism. The monastery's architecture, typical of Tibetan Buddhist monasteries, is characterized by intricate carvings, vibrant murals, and a harmonious blend of traditional design elements.

Conclusion:

This is just a taste of the many captivating Monasteries and Buddha statues Ladakh has to offer, each telling a story, unveils a unique artistic tradition, and offers a window into the vibrant Buddhist culture of the region. So, pack your bags, embrace the spirit of adventure, and embark on your own journey to discover the spiritual gems of Ladakh. So, if you seek a journey that transcends sightseeing, embark on this pilgrimage to Ladakh's Buddha statues. You'll return not just with breathtaking memories but also with a newfound sense of peace and tranquility.

Few tips for experiencing the Monasteries:

• Dress modestly: Out of respect for the religious significance of the monasteries, dress modestly by covering your shoulders and knees.

• Seek permission for photography: While some monasteries allow photography freely, others have restrictions. It's always best to ask permission before taking photos.

• Maintain silence: Remember, these are places of worship. Keep your voice low and be mindful of others seeking peace and tranquility.

Ladakh's monasteries offer more than just stunning architecture; they are gateways to a vibrant culture and a deep-rooted spiritual tradition. So, embark on your own Ladakhi adventure and lose yourself in the beauty of these ancient gompas.

Related readings :

-  Hidden Gems of the Himalayas: High Passes in Ladakh Overshadowed by Giants  https://www.ghumnechalo.in/post/high-mountain-passes-in-ladakh

-  Unveiling the Untamed Beauty: An offbeat travel guide to exploring the hidden villages of Ladakh https://www.ghumnechalo.in/post/ladakh-hidden-villages-offbeat-travel

-  Beyond Pangong Tso and Tso Moriri: Unveiling Ladakh's Hidden Gems https://www.ghumnechalo.in/post/beyond-pangong-tso-and-tso-moriri-unveiling-ladakh-s-hidden-gems

-  Ladakh's Silent Sentinels: A Journey through War Memorials  https://www.ghumnechalo.in/post/ladakh-s-silent-sentinels-a-journey-through-war-memorials

Other posts by the author :

-  Unveiling the Mystery : A Pilgrimage through Yogini Temples across India https://www.ghumnechalo.in/post/unveiling-the-mystery-a-pilgrimage-through-yogini-temples-across-india