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A Journey Through Khajuraho's Temples : Beyond the Erotic

  • ashokkdas1958
  • Oct 27, 2024
  • 5 min read

Khajuraho's Temples : Beyond the Erotic - Part I : Eastern & Southern Groups of Temples

 

Khajuraho Temples ! The name itself conjures images of intricately carved sandstone and, of course, the famous erotic sculptures. In fact the sculptures on the temple walls describes the various goals of human life, i.e. Dharma, Kama, Artha & Mokshya,  based on Hindu philosophy. While these erotic sculptures undeniably hold a certain intrigue, they very often overshadow the true grandeur and significance of this UNESCO World Heritage Site.

 


Why the Focus on Eroticism?

 

There are a few reasons why the erotic sculptures get such prominence:

  • Sensationalism: Let's face it, explicit content grabs attention. Unfortunately, for some, it becomes the defining characteristic of Khajuraho, overshadowing the richer artistic and historical tapestry.

  • Marketing Ploy: Let's be honest, the "Kama Sutra temples" tagline is catchy, but it simplifies the essence of Khajuraho for tourism purposes.

  • Misinterpretation: The meaning and purpose of these sculptures are still debated. Some theories suggest they represent fertility, celebration of life, or tantric practices. Without a clear understanding, they become easy fodder for sensationalization.

 

 

Khajuraho's Temples - Beyond the Erotic: A Tapestry of Sculptures

 

The most captivating aspect of Khajuraho's sculptures lies in their sheer diversity. Yes, there are depictions of sensuality and love, often interpreted as symbolic representations of tantric practices or the celebration of kama (desire) as a natural part of life. However, these constitute a mere 10% of the total artwork and the remaining 90% tells a much richer story. The vast majority depict deities, celestial beings, musicians, dancers, and scenes from everyday life. These intricate carvings offer a fascinating glimpse into the social structure, art forms, and belief systems of the Chandela dynasty that built these temples between 950 and 1050 AD.

 

We see a profusion of divine figures - the imposing Shiva, the benevolent Vishnu, and the graceful Saraswati, each depicted in exquisite detail. There are mythical creatures like the Vyalas, with lion-like bodies and fierce expressions, serving as guardians. We encounter scenes from epics like the Ramayana and Mahabharata, immortalized in stone. Carvings showcase musicians lost in melodies, dancers in graceful poses, and couples engaged in everyday activities, offering a glimpse into the social life of the Chandela era.

 

Moving beyond the limited lens of eroticism, let’s explore the true depth and beauty of these magnificent architectural marvels. Let's embark on a journey that delves deeper, exploring the captivating history, architectural brilliance, and the diverse range of sculptures that adorn these sandstone wonders.

 

A Timeless Legacy: The Chandela Dynasty

 

Our story begins with the Chandela dynasty, who ruled Central India between the 9th and 13th centuries. These visionary patrons of art and architecture embarked on an ambitious project - the construction of over 80 temples dedicated to Hinduism and Jainism. Today, around 25 of these architectural marvels stand as a testament to their legacy, their grandeur defying time.

 

 

A Symphony in Stone: Unveiling the Architectural Marvels

 

As we approach the temples, we are greeted by towering shikharas (spires) that pierce the sky. Each temple rests on a jagati (platform), intricately carved with friezes depicting scenes from mythology and everyday life. Stepping closer, we marvel at the intricate carvings that adorn every surface. Floral motifs dance alongside celestial beings, while geometric patterns create a mesmerizing visual symphony.

 

Sri Ghanshyam Tewari, one of the experienced Guides, explained us the architectural intricacies of the temples. The main components of these temples are (a) the ‘Pradakshina, (b) the ‘Ardha Mandapa’ and ‘Mandapa’, (c) the Maha Mandapa and finally (d) the ‘Garbhagriha’ (the sanctum sanctorium with ‘Antarala’ an ante-chamber. Similarly, the sculptures in the temples can be catagorised under 5 different sets i.e. (a) the Cult Images, (b) the Parivara, Parsva and Avarana Devatas, (c) the Apsarar and Surasundaris, (d) mythical creatures like Vyalas, Sadrula and other animals and (e) sculptures of miscellaneous themes like Dancers, Musicians, Disciples and domestic scenes.

 

 

A Spiritual Sojourn: Unveiling the Inner Sanctums

 

Stepping inside the temples, a sense of serenity washed over us. The sanctums enshrine various deities, their presence palpable in the dimly lit atmosphere. The intricate carvings continue within, narrating stories from scriptures and creating a visual language of devotion.

 

 

The Three Groups of Temple Complexes

 

The temples are strategically grouped into three complexes depending on their locations: Western, Eastern and Southern Group of temples. While all three temple groups at Khajuraho boast unique qualities, the Western Group stands out for its size and architectural grandeur, housing nearly half of the region's temples. Although the Eastern and Southern Groups have fewer temples, they offer distinct attractions and charm. To fully appreciate the diversity and magnificence of these temples and their sculptures, I've chosen to present them in two parts: the first covering the Eastern and Southern Groups, and the second focusing on the Western Group.

 

Part I : Eastern & Southern Groups of Temples

 

1. Eastern Group: Unveiling Jain Serenity

The Eastern Group of Temples is a remarkable collection of Hindu and Jain temple structures renowned for their intricate carvings and erotic sculptures. This cluster of temples, located near the village of Khajuraho, offers a glimpse into the rich cultural heritage of the Chandela dynasty. Key Temples in the Eastern Group are:

 

  • Adinath Temple: The largest Jain temple in Khajuraho, it's dedicated to the first Jain Tirthankara, Adinath. The intricate geometric patterns and the colossal statue of Adinath exude peace and serenity.

 


  • Parsvanath Temple: Dedicated to the 23rd Jain Tirthankara, this temple boasts a beautiful mandapa (hall) with intricately carved pillars. The serene atmosphere within invites contemplation.

 



  • Vamana and Javeri Temples: Two smaller Hindu temples, each with distinctive features and carvings.

 


Some magnificent sculptures in the Eastern Group Temples


 

2. Southern Group: A Serene Escape  

The Southern Group of temples, located a short distance away from the Eastern and Western groups, is a smaller collection of structures but offers a more intimate experience compared to the larger Eastern and Western groups. This group features two main temples:

 

  • Chaturbhuja Temple: Dedicated to Vishnu, this temple features a four-armed central image of the deity. The intricate carvings and the serene atmosphere offer a glimpse into Vaishnava traditions.

 


  • Duladeo Temple : Constructed during the period 1100-1150 AD, this temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva. It has a towering shikhara (spire) that rises in multiple stories with ornate sculptures depicting various deities, mythological scenes and erotic themes. A large Shiva lingam adorns the sanctum sanctorum

 



 

In this post, I’ve highlighted the key temples I explored in the Eastern and Southern Groups. As I mentioned, I’ll delve deeper into the more renowned Western Group of Temples in a subsequent post. So please stay tuned for the next installment, where I’ll discuss the famous Western Group of Temples.




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