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A Journey Through Khajuraho's Temples : Beyond the Erotic - Part II

  • ashokkdas1958
  • Nov 8, 2024
  • 5 min read

Khajuraho's Temples : Beyond the Erotic - Part II : Western Group of Temples

 

 

In my previous post, I delved into the captivating Eastern and Southern temple groups of Khajuraho. (Khajuraho's Temples : Beyond the Erotic - Part I : Eastern & Southern Groups of Temples https://www.ghumnechalo.in/post/a-journey-through-khajuraho-s-temples-beyond-the-erotic).  Now, let's continue our exploration of this ancient Indian architectural marvel by focusing on the Western Group of Temples. These structures are renowned for their intricate carvings, serene ambiance, and the harmonious blend of religious and erotic themes that have made Khajuraho a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

 

Part II : Western Group of Temples

  

The Western Group of temples is the largest group of Khajuraho temples renowned for its exquisite architecture and intricate sculptures. Around 12 temples are in this group including the 64 Yogini Temple, the oldest in Khajuraho region, and the Kandariya Mahadev Temple, the largest and undoubtedly the most famed one. Here are some of the most notable temples within the Western Group:

 

  • Matangeshwar Temple : Unlike many of the other temples in Khajuraho, Matangeshwar Temple is still actively used for religious worship, making it a living testament to its spiritual significance. The temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva, a prominent deity in Hinduism, and is believed to be a shrine of the venerated sage Matang. The temple houses one of the largest Shiva lingams in India, a towering structure made of sparkling yellow limestone.



  • Kandariya Mahadev Temple: The undisputed crown jewel, this temple is the largest among all temples. It is dedicated to Lord Shiva and is renowned for its intricate carvings that adorn every inch of its surface. Look out for the celestial nymphs (apsaras) in their alluring poses and the detailed friezes depicting scenes from Hindu mythology.

 


  • Vishwanatha Temple: This temple, dedicated to Lord Vishnu, showcases the pinnacle of Chandela craftsmanship. The shikhara (tower) is a masterpiece of geometric precision, while the sculptures narrate tales from the Vishnu Purana. Smaller than the Kandariya Mahadeva Temple but it is still impressive, with a graceful shikhara and intricate details.

 



  • Lakshmana Temple: Dedicated to Vaishnavism, this second largest temple in the western group is famed for its exquisite carvings depicting various avatars of Vishnu, including the ten-armed Varaha and the conch-wielding Vishnu.



  • Varaha Temple : This temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu in his boar avatar, Varaha, who rescued the earth from the depths of the ocean. Small and compact, with a simple shikhara and limited carvings, this houses a large intrinsically carved beautiful Varaha statue.

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  • Chitragupta Temple : This is a small but very ornate temple dedicated to the sun god Surya. The temple is decorated with intricate carvings of gods and goddesses, mythological scenes, and erotic figures. The most impressive feature of the Chitragupta temple is the black stone statue of sun god in the sanctum sanctorum.

 


  • Jagadambika Temple : The Jagadambika temple is dedicated to the goddess Jagadamba, who is believed to be an incarnation of Durga. Originally this temple was believed to be a Vishnu temple. It is a larger temple than the Chitragupta temple, and it is also more ornate. Like other temples this is also decorated with intricate carvings of gods and goddesses, mythological scenes and erotic figures. The shrine is adorned with beautiful sculptures of Jagadamba and other deities.



  • 64 Yogini Temple: Tucked away amidst the grandeur of Khajuraho groups of temples also lies the neglected remnants of the Chausathi Yogini temple away from the limelight. Being in the vicinity of such famous cousins, this 9th century temple complex, the oldest among all the temples in the Khajuraho region, has suffered the negligence and is now in ruins.  In contrast to the typical circular layout of Yogini temples, this complex though hypaethral by design is on a rectangular courtyard plan. Similarly, there is no trace of any central shrine as found in other Yogini temples. While hardly less than half of the shrines are still standing against time, the layout suggest that the 64 shrine cells for yogini idols were placed 10 on front side, 22 each on both sides and 11 on the back side. (For further details on 64 Yogini temples across India, please  read my earlier post Unveiling the Mystery : A Pilgrimage through Yogini Temples across India https://www.ghumnechalo.in/post/unveiling-the-mystery-a-pilgrimage-through-yogini-temples-across-india)



  • Other Temples : Also there are some other beautiful temples like Parvati Temple, Nandi Temple, etc.

 


Some magnificent sculptures in the Western Group Temples




 

Tips for an Enriching Khajuraho Experience

 

Khajuraho welcomes visitors year-round, though the intense summer heat is best avoided. As a UNESCO World Heritage site, the town offers a wide range of accommodation options. Enjoy easy access to Khajuraho by air, rail, or road, with an international airport serving the region.

 

So, how can we appreciate Khajuraho in its entirety? Here are some tips:

 

  • Hire a knowledgeable guide: A guide can explain the symbolism and context behind the sculptures, both erotic and non-erotic, enriching your understanding of the temples' significance.

  • Plan your visit: The Western Group is the most crowded. Consider visiting the Eastern and Southern Groups early in the day for a more peaceful experience.

  • Explore the different temples: Each temple has a unique architectural style and theme. Don't miss the stunning Kandariya Mahadeva Temple dedicated to Shiva or the intricately carved Lakshmana Temple.

  • Appreciate the artistry: Look beyond the erotic depictions and appreciate the intricate carvings, the architectural style, and the sheer dedication that went into creating these magnificent structures.

  • Light & sound show: Don’t miss the light & sound show at the Eastern group of temple complex which gives a deep insight of the historical facts.

  • Respectful attire: Khajuraho is a place of worship. Dress modestly to avoid causing offense.

  • Photographer’s paradise: Khajuraho, a photographer's dream, offers stunning photo opportunities. For the best shots, arrive at the temple complexes before the crowds descend

 

Conclusion:


Khajuraho is more than just a collection of temples; it's a window into a bygone era. As we walk through these corridors of history, we gain a deeper understanding of the Chandela dynasty's artistic genius, their reverence for the divine, and their celebration of life in all its forms. The erotic sculptures, while captivating, are just a single thread in this rich tapestry. While the intricate carvings depicting various aspects of life, including sensuality, are what Khajuraho is most known for, there's much more to uncover within these ancient walls. So, the next time you hear about Khajuraho, remember, the true beauty lies in the sheer variety and exquisite artistry that adorns these timeless monuments. It's a place that beckons you to explore, to appreciate the artistry, and to delve into the soul of a glorious civilization.






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